I am getting some squeaking and allot of dust from my front brakes. I would like to just replace the front pads but if I need a complete brake job, I would like to go ahead and do it all at once. I have a '03 Disco with 42k. I do not know when, if at all, the last brake job was performed. So at what point should I typically consider replacing the disks and pads?

 

You shouldn't have to replace the discs. Just take em to a machine shop and have them turn them for you. If the squeakin is bothering you there are pads that work good for rovers that fix that. I dont know which ones but someone will answer for ya.

 

I'd be interested in knowing about good pads too. My brakes are squeeking - I haven't taken it in yet so I don't know if the pads need replacing, or if these pads are just squeeky naturally. They don't squeek all the time, which leads me to believe they're still good, just noisy.

 

Just for future reference, you NEVER turn Rover rotors or they are as good as gone, they are too thin to start with, and the alloy of Rover rotors is very soft.
Even Rover will tell you these are not to be resurfaced.
If you figure they are glazzed up, you can use a sand dics and cut the glaze, that is all.
Mike

 

Go to Atlantic British or get in touch with Geoman and you will find some good pads for your rotors. By the way, the dust and the squeaking are not good and will cause the brake warning lights to come on.
Mike

 

Yep, my ABS,TC, and HDC lights are randomly going off. I had read in another post to only buy Land Rover or Girling pads. Is that correct?

 

The brake rotors are -- sacrificed together with the pads-- as they approach their service life. As DiscoMike stated, a proper Land Rover brake job requires both components be replaced (when considering the vehicle weight, safety envelope, and reliability we all seek --not doing it properly is rather foolish). Also-- the mismatch in radial location of pad, and diameter of the brake rotor itself often results in a "standing rib" on the edge of the rotor as it wears. This contributes (with the accumulation of brake dust) to the Squeal at low speeds many owners experience. At the shop we chamfer the outside edge of the pad, apply directly to the friction surface of each pad-- a anti-squeal liquid, let it dry for 20 minutes before installation. I include the liquid, a acid brush, and protective gloves with all my brake kits. The only thing left to do after using a spray Brake Clean product to remove accumulated road grime and brake dust from the caliper body, is to apply a SPARSE amount of anti-seize to the backing plate on each pad only where it contacts the caliper piston. Just look at your old pads to see this contact area.

Depending on your model and year, we supply Brembo or Brake Engineering rotors, and TRW or PBR pads. This combination has resulted in the best trade-off in performance, service life, and cost. There are owners getting 30K miles out of their brakes, and then some getting 45-50K. Much of this is due to a difference in driving style. These vehicles are heavy, and "late braking" as if driving a sedan or small import will cost you!

regards,
Geoman
eurotekapg.com

 

Wow. Thats crazy! I hate when I give wrong advice - thanks Disco Mike and geo.

 

No problem, do it again and you loose driving rights on your Rover for a week.
Mike

 

If I'm getting squeeking at 45k, is it safe to say only the fronts need replacing? I'm ordering rotors/pads now, and don't know if I should get fronts or both fronts and backs.