I purchased my fifth Rover, a disco 2 about a year ago and have replaced the water pump, thermostat (soft spring), fan and fan clutch and have done a complete flush on the system and am running conventional green coolant in place of the dexcool. Last year it was running great on the highway at a steady 194 degrees. Now, it actually runs hotter on the highway than in town I have seen temps up to about 217. When it gets to higher temperatures it takes a while to cool down unless i turn the heat on (which is one of the reasons it makes me think radiator) The truck has never overheated since I have owned it. My thoughts are its one of the following 1) radiator needs replaced 2) head gaskets 3) paranoia on my part (mostly due to overheating my disco 1 and getting slipped liner)

 

Replace the radiator. I wouldn't be too concerned about head gaskets unless you are losing coolant, but I could be wrong. Have you made sure that there's no air in the lines that needs bled out?

 

Since we can't see in infrared like some movie creatures, we have to depend on things that can. An IR thermometer ($30) can be pointed at the radiator, when it is warmed up, truck off. Go vertical from top to bottom. In a straight line. Clogged up rads are cooler on the bottom, usually by more than 10F. Enough clog and the viscous fan clutch faceplate gets cooler air than it should and won't engage at full power. 180F stats are also a great upgrade.

Note: Pix 2 is not with a $30 point and click thermometer. And it is of a home radiator, not automotive. But for demo purpose, cooler at the clog. Pix 3 is a member radiator, with clog and calcium buildup. Pix 4 is Dex mud, made with aged Dexcool and contamination. Pix one is a member truck with a 180F stat headed for fun in the desert.

 

Thanks for the replies, I am never 100% sure there is no air in this system! If someone has a foolproof way to bleed it please let me know. I do have access to an infrared camera and will use that to see the temperature change in the radiator. Also, these temps are with the 180 degree soft spring stat.

 

Don't need an IR camera, just a $30 IR non contact thermometer will do.

As for bleeding, it is said that with truck off, raise the coolant jug with a bungee, open the bleeder valve, and add coolant until bubbles quit coming out. Don't stop with first two or three. Air in the system (as well as exhaust gas) sounds off as bubbles rushing thru the heater core under dash. Here is a pix of a home brew T, note bubbles. And a D2 with 180 stat on the way for fun in the desert.

 

any thoughts on this radiator?

 

Well, it is two row, compared to one row on the oem. But low price can mean low quality. If it bursts, the coolant loss and immediate overheat can cause a lot more problems than the difference in price of a better radiator. You get to a point, how cheap can the Land of Pandas make it and ship it the the US, unload at a big port, warehouse it, ship it on trucks, move it around with forklifts, etc. What does it start out costing the factory? $8 ? The point I'm trying to make is with all the extra shipping and distribution expense, cutting price has to mean cutting something maybe besides labor.

You can get a Nissens 2 row from Rock Auto for like $200.

 

I was thinking many of the same things Savannah. I was just hoping for a few people to chime in and say how great their experience was with the first one. lol. Is the Nissen better than the Silla? Silla Silla OE Replacement Radiator (New) - JCWhitney

 

Replace the radiator.
And, put in the REAL 180 degree thermostat from a ROVER branded box, not some goofy Motorad or such.

 

You may want to put in a Hayden Fan clutch - HD.
I replaced ALL this stuff, radiator, fan clutch and put in 180 degree stat.
No issues. None at all now.
I don't even run with a code scanner or an ultra gauge. No need to.