Radiator Cold, but Good Temps.
#21
10-30-2015, 10:13 PM
I believe that one is for the ECU to help control fuel mixes based on the difference in temp.
I put the new rad and thermostat in tonight. Bled it out the best I could, but got the waterfall symptom on the test drive. Got it to my house and parked it on a big hill to get ready and bleed again in the morning.
I put the new rad and thermostat in tonight. Bled it out the best I could, but got the waterfall symptom on the test drive. Got it to my house and parked it on a big hill to get ready and bleed again in the morning.
Last edited by Bom2oo2; 10-31-2015 at 01:46 AM.
#22
10-31-2015, 01:20 AM
Maybe it would work even better to park uphill with the front tires on a curb AND lift the overflow tank up as high as possible then bleed through bleed screw while the engine is cold of course.
I've never had any trouble just lifting the overflow tank up, engine stone cold, open screw, wait till steady stream... reinsert bleed screw... make sure tank does not get empty in process... top up to "cold" line and drive till up to temp. let cool again and retop to cold line if necessary.
The above got rid of the waterfall for me every time. I imagine it might not work if you have other issues but it worked for me when I had a slow external head gasket leak... I could tell if I got the waterfall sound I needed to add some coolant and do a quick bleed in the morning... I milked doing the HG's for 8k miles doing that. The above bleed procedure worked every time.
I've never had any trouble just lifting the overflow tank up, engine stone cold, open screw, wait till steady stream... reinsert bleed screw... make sure tank does not get empty in process... top up to "cold" line and drive till up to temp. let cool again and retop to cold line if necessary.
The above got rid of the waterfall for me every time. I imagine it might not work if you have other issues but it worked for me when I had a slow external head gasket leak... I could tell if I got the waterfall sound I needed to add some coolant and do a quick bleed in the morning... I milked doing the HG's for 8k miles doing that. The above bleed procedure worked every time.
Last edited by Dave03S; 10-31-2015 at 01:29 AM.
#23
10-31-2015, 02:04 PM
Left it overnight. Filled the expansion tank, wasn't really that low, pulled it out of the holder and removed the bleeder. Steady stream came out. Let it idle up to temp with the heater on, no waterfall noise, took it for a drive and temps were between 200-210. Came back to check the lower radiator hose and it's still cold.
I don't get it. New radiator, new thermostat, new hoses, new belt and idler pulleys. The water pump is working (also relatively new) fans are working. Just won't push coolant through the new radiator for some ****ing reason. Really pissing me off and making me nervous of how accurate those UG reading are. Really don't want to overheat this thing without even knowing.
I don't get it. New radiator, new thermostat, new hoses, new belt and idler pulleys. The water pump is working (also relatively new) fans are working. Just won't push coolant through the new radiator for some ****ing reason. Really pissing me off and making me nervous of how accurate those UG reading are. Really don't want to overheat this thing without even knowing.
#24
10-31-2015, 02:13 PM
Which thermostat do you have in there now? Those numbers are consistent with at stock stat and may also be consistent with a Motorad.
If you want lower numbers you will have to get the OEM Grey 180 degree TD5 thermostat.
I wouldn't blame the UG, it is just repeating what your ECU is telling it. The only way your ECU could be wrong is if your temp sensors are bad but as stated above, your numbers sound right if you didn't get the right thermostat in there yet.
BTW, take it easy bro.
If you want lower numbers you will have to get the OEM Grey 180 degree TD5 thermostat.
I wouldn't blame the UG, it is just repeating what your ECU is telling it. The only way your ECU could be wrong is if your temp sensors are bad but as stated above, your numbers sound right if you didn't get the right thermostat in there yet.
BTW, take it easy bro.
#25
10-31-2015, 02:16 PM
Which thermostat do you have in there now? Those numbers are consistent with at stock stat and may also be consistent with a Motorad.
If you want lower numbers you will have to get the OEM Grey 180 degree TD5 thermostat.
I wouldn't blame the UG, it is just repeating what your ECU is telling it. The only way your ECU could be wrong is if your temp sensors are bad but as stated above, your numbers sound right if you didn't get the right thermostat in there yet.
BTW, take it easy bro.
If you want lower numbers you will have to get the OEM Grey 180 degree TD5 thermostat.
I wouldn't blame the UG, it is just repeating what your ECU is telling it. The only way your ECU could be wrong is if your temp sensors are bad but as stated above, your numbers sound right if you didn't get the right thermostat in there yet.
BTW, take it easy bro.
#26
10-31-2015, 02:25 PM
#27
10-31-2015, 02:41 PM
Yes. The belt is routed the correct way as the diagram on rover parts shows without ACE.
#28
10-31-2015, 02:47 PM
Those are the temps I got when I had a stock thermostat and a Motorad installed. The Motorad was no better than stock temp wise and apparently they fail a lot. I'm speaking from experience.
This is why everyone keeps telling you to get the right one.
So stop being stubborn and git er done already. You're almost there and denying yourself the final satisfaction!
Good luck and report back.
This is why everyone keeps telling you to get the right one.
So stop being stubborn and git er done already. You're almost there and denying yourself the final satisfaction!
Good luck and report back.
Last edited by Dave03S; 10-31-2015 at 02:51 PM.
#29
10-31-2015, 03:58 PM
What was temp b4 you flush coolant & do all this,? If it was much lower than 200-210* then yes something is wrong,,
If it was same, & you want lower temp, then listen to the guys & change thermostat to 180*,, because that is what will do the trick for you, not new radiator, unless old one was really clogged,
Standard stat starts opening at 196-198 by the time it wants to open all the way, enough cool coolant has passed trough it to close it again, so engine stays well above 200* but radiator cools off again, specially bottom section that has little contact with upper hose,,
& ambiant temp being 60* as you said cools radiator pretty quickly,,
If it was same, & you want lower temp, then listen to the guys & change thermostat to 180*,, because that is what will do the trick for you, not new radiator, unless old one was really clogged,
Standard stat starts opening at 196-198 by the time it wants to open all the way, enough cool coolant has passed trough it to close it again, so engine stays well above 200* but radiator cools off again, specially bottom section that has little contact with upper hose,,
& ambiant temp being 60* as you said cools radiator pretty quickly,,
#30
11-02-2015, 11:40 AM
So I let it sit nose way up for the rest of the weekend. Bled it out again this morning and drove it to lunch. Moving temps were between 206 and 215.
Sitting in the parking lot running now for about 20 minutes the gauge hasn't moved from 212*F. The bottom hose on the rad is 90* and the top hoses are 180ish. The radiator is cold to the touch in the middle and towards the bottom.
As of now I'm assuming this is normal and nothing to worry about?
Sitting in the parking lot running now for about 20 minutes the gauge hasn't moved from 212*F. The bottom hose on the rad is 90* and the top hoses are 180ish. The radiator is cold to the touch in the middle and towards the bottom.
As of now I'm assuming this is normal and nothing to worry about?