Radiator Issues???
#21
OK. Just did my second test non-mucked-up test. Came back blue again (See pic)! I know this is not a 100% head gaskets are a good sign, but I will take it. I am still planning on doing the coolant swap tomorrow, a pressure test after that, and then putting in the in-line thermostat mod (I know it is basically double flushing the system). This time while doing the test I took a good look at everything and noticed part of the cap seemed to be melted. Could this have caused my original over-boiling issue? The truck ran in the same 96-99c range during a pure idle as last time. Also, I was able to finally get ahold of the major service records. Aside from the water pump a few years back (2015) and thermostat (being removed anyway), everything is basically original to the truck. I know the old adage is if it ain't broke don't fix it, but is it worth just upgrading everything while I'm doing the thermostat, to begin with?
#22
it doesn't hurt to just go entirely new with the cooling system. hoses, connectors, radiator, water pump, cap, etc...
if the fluid stays blue, that means there is no combustion gases in the coolant, which means your block is not cracked and you don't have a leak between the coolant passages and the water jacket.
Next step is to pressure test to find any leaks. it would help to put UV dye is as well during the pressure test and then you can see if there is any leaks more easily, but if pressure doesn't hold, then you are guaranteed some sort of leak somewhere. I'm not sure if you need to flush after using the dye as well.
if you can do the head gasket job yourself, it isn't *that* expensive and you'll have more peace of mind down the road.
if the fluid stays blue, that means there is no combustion gases in the coolant, which means your block is not cracked and you don't have a leak between the coolant passages and the water jacket.
Next step is to pressure test to find any leaks. it would help to put UV dye is as well during the pressure test and then you can see if there is any leaks more easily, but if pressure doesn't hold, then you are guaranteed some sort of leak somewhere. I'm not sure if you need to flush after using the dye as well.
if you can do the head gasket job yourself, it isn't *that* expensive and you'll have more peace of mind down the road.
#23
@discoinfernoOSV that looks more cut or snapped than melted but yes it needs to be replaced. On the inline mod test the thermostat in boiling water, before installing mine was nfg out of the box, it is pretty rare for thermostats to be DOA but it only takes a few minutes to test. As well check all the hoses, while you have it empty.
Once the inline mod is done you will see much better and predictable heating cooling cycles
Once the inline mod is done you will see much better and predictable heating cooling cycles
#24
it doesn't hurt to just go entirely new with the cooling system. hoses, connectors, radiator, water pump, cap, etc...
if the fluid stays blue, that means there is no combustion gases in the coolant, which means your block is not cracked and you don't have a leak between the coolant passages and the water jacket.
Next step is to pressure test to find any leaks. it would help to put UV dye is as well during the pressure test and then you can see if there is any leaks more easily, but if pressure doesn't hold, then you are guaranteed some sort of leak somewhere. I'm not sure if you need to flush after using the dye as well.
if you can do the head gasket job yourself, it isn't *that* expensive and you'll have more peace of mind down the road.
if the fluid stays blue, that means there is no combustion gases in the coolant, which means your block is not cracked and you don't have a leak between the coolant passages and the water jacket.
Next step is to pressure test to find any leaks. it would help to put UV dye is as well during the pressure test and then you can see if there is any leaks more easily, but if pressure doesn't hold, then you are guaranteed some sort of leak somewhere. I'm not sure if you need to flush after using the dye as well.
if you can do the head gasket job yourself, it isn't *that* expensive and you'll have more peace of mind down the road.
@discoinfernoOSV that looks more cut or snapped than melted but yes it needs to be replaced. On the inline mod test the thermostat in boiling water, before installing mine was nfg out of the box, it is pretty rare for thermostats to be DOA but it only takes a few minutes to test. As well check all the hoses, while you have it empty.
Once the inline mod is done you will see much better and predictable heating cooling cycles
Once the inline mod is done you will see much better and predictable heating cooling cycles
#25
Did you run it again, in between first failed attempt and second correct attempt at testing for combustion gases? If so and it passed, yes, now go forward with new cap, flush and other changes you're making. If no, run it until operating temperature, wait until cool off enough to remove cap, immediately install tester and complete test.
Yes, that cap is toast. Believe l mentioned that in my first post.
Good luck.
Yes, that cap is toast. Believe l mentioned that in my first post.
Good luck.
#26
Did you run it again, in between first failed attempt and second correct attempt at testing for combustion gases? If so and it passed, yes, now go forward with new cap, flush and other changes you're making. If no, run it until operating temperature, wait until cool off enough to remove cap, immediately install tester and complete test.
Yes, that cap is toast. Believe l mentioned that in my first post.
Good luck.
Yes, that cap is toast. Believe l mentioned that in my first post.
Good luck.
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The Deputy (07-16-2021)
#27
#28
I was able to get the pressure test done today. Came back with two hoses leaking, at the T joint with the bleeder and where the small hose connects to the top of the radiator. Both got moved around a little bit when I was doing the power steering pump and given the age of the hoses, it isn't a surprise. Overall, it lost just 1psi (17psi at the beginning and 16psi at the end) during the 20-minute test. There was a pretty consistent drip from the small hose, the leak at the T joint was a lot smaller. I have ordered a new hoses kit, as well as a reservoir and cap from Lucky 8 and a new radiator (Nissens) from Rock Auto to go with the inline mod from Extinct. I am thinking of replacing all of the clip bands (probably the wrong term, sorry) with hose bands that you can use a screwdriver or ratchet on while replacing all of the hoses. All parts are expected this week and I will tackle the job next weekend (assuming there isn't good fishing weather).
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Richard Gallant (07-18-2021)
#29
#30