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That's the SAI hose, it will be very brittle, be careful with it. You mind some value in buying a hose tool kit. They are screw drivers with pointed hooks on the end for getting under hoses and releasing their bond with the mating pipes. Some also come with spring clamp pliers.
I ended up buying one and a spring clamp and was able to get them off. It was still a fight. They left about 1/4 of the hose on the barbs for the heater core. Tried scraping them off as best I could before putting the new hoses on. I was 99% sure that was an SAI hose, I tried to be careful with it. It is on my list of things to deal with as I am throwing SAI codes (p1412 and p1415). Every piece of plastic in this thing is just disintegrating at the slightest touch. I picked up the cap for the windshield washing fluid and it was breaking apart resting in my hand.
Just wanted to close this thread out and thank everyone for their reply and help in resolving this matter. I was able to finally get everything removed and new parts installed this morning and it seems to have done the trick. In the process is removing the radiator and hoses I switched over to the extinct mod for the thermostat and I ended up last minute (yesterday) buying the parts to redo the fan clutch and fan (Duralast clutch / Dorman fan). During the process, I had read that the outside value cover bolts can sometimes be loose, and it appeared that the engine had a minor oil leak around this area, so I checked and sure enough they were very loose. I was able to snug those down as well. Hopefully, that will resolve that issue. During the swapping of parts I saw that the tube for the intake (the mesh area) was basically not intact it had dry rotten so bad. I found the silicon tube assembly on rovers north and what was probably the easiest automotive thing I have ever done swapped out the tubes. Looks way better and has to be more functional. After getting everything in, adding the coolant I ran the truck in idle for ~20 minutes. It was awesome to see the thermostat working. Temps would go up to ~186 and then over the next 10 or so seconds swing down to ~178 and repeat every few minutes or so. Took it out for a test drive later and it was staying right around the +100 ambient temp (180-186). The only time it really increased to ~200 was when I was waiting at a closed road for ~10 minutes after the truck was warmed up. Much better than the ~210 the truck was running at idle before changing everything out.
Thought this was fixed, but now I'm not sure. I've done a pressure test 4 times now since I have replaced everything. The first time, before I ran it, it dropped a very small margin, less than 1psi in 20 minutes. Ran it around, everything seemed ok except there was noticably less coolant in the reservoir than before. Filled it up, let it cool and did another pressure test. Found a leak right away. Tightened all my clamps, and redid and like before it had a ever so small psi drop after 20 minutes. Small enough I was wondering if my angle of reading the gauge was off causing the difference. Ran it again, let it cool and sure enough the coolant was again noticably lower. Did another test, and same results as before. This time when I took the pressure off the reservoir went back to being full. Today I crawl under the truck to put some pb blaster on the bolts for the transmission pan and find coolant on the front passenger shock (see pics) and a line running under. It seems this has to be from the overflow pipe or the tank itself. I'm doing another test currently (really need to take this thing back before I'm charged $250 for it) and it's dropping. I cannot find a leak anywhere. Am I over thinking this? Not sure what else to do at the moment.
Try to zip tie a gatorade or water bottle underneath the overflow tube to see if it’s leaking out the tube and how much. Let the tube drain directly into the bottle and perform the same tests with hot/cold cycle.
can you take the tank off, plug all the extra holes and then run a Pressure test on just the tank? You should be able to drain coolant and then support the line that feeds into it so you don’t have to do a complete bleed. That should help you determine if the tank is good or not.
those two options are free.
after that, I’d try UV dye to see where it’s coming from if you still can’t find it.
hows your passenger front floor? The heater core can leak as well, but it’s hidden in the dash. You can remove the glove box to access it from the side, but it involves cutting some metal tube to remove.
Last edited by tnrangerover; 08-03-2021 at 08:52 AM.
Try to zip tie a gatorade or water bottle underneath the overflow tube to see if it’s leaking out the tube and how much. Let the tube drain directly into the bottle and perform the same tests with hot/cold cycle.
can you take the tank off, plug all the extra holes and then run a Pressure test on just the tank? You should be able to drain coolant and then support the line that feeds into it so you don’t have to do a complete bleed. That should help you determine if the tank is good or not.
those two options are free.
after that, I’d try UV dye to see where it’s coming from if you still can’t find it.
hows your passenger front floor? The heater core can leak as well, but it’s hidden in the dash. You can remove the glove box to access it from the side, but it involves cutting some metal tube to remove.
The passenger floor is fine. I ended up going back and looking over the extinct mod and I'm wondering if I bleed it correctly. I don't believe I got it up to temp before putting the cap on. I ended up redoing the bleeding cycle in the past hour or so. More coolant came into the reservoir and nothing came out of the overflow. I ran it around the community for a bit and same. Letting it cool down and I'll try again this afternoon. Hopefully, it is something that simple.
Originally Posted by Richard Gallant
@discoinfernoOSV lift the tank and support it while doing the pressure test as well, they are known to crack and there is a hose under there.
That I hadn't done. I checked the tank and hose underneath, neither seemed to be the culprit, but I will try again.
Ok. So after I last posted I did another pressure test and drove it around some, both after I rebleed the system. The coolant levels basically stayed the same each time, but it failed the pressure test again. Loses about 0.5-1.0 psi per hour at the moment. Went and bought a dye, light and the glasses and cycled it through the engine. Interestingly enough, the area where the throttle body heater is glowed before I even put it in. After (see pics) it was brighter for sure. Doing a little reading I hear of people (best 4x4 being the main champion) modding this so it is not longer there. I also understand that it's needed in cold weather environments. I'm in Maryland on the coast, it doesn't get too cold here, but how cold is cold enough to potentially cause an issue? We do get occasions when temps dip to 20 or so and would want to be able to drive the truck if I have to go to work.
07-25-2021, 07:47 PM
