I can not detect any miss, the engine runs smooth. I drove it 45 miles this morning before the check engine light came on. I cancelled out the code and I ran the engine in the garage for 15 minutes and no new code. I know this sounds strange but I see the check engine light come on and it flashes then stays on after I have been driving a while and I slow down and turn to the right on a little hill. Does that mean anything. I inspected the injector harness real close and the injector connector and all looked good.

 

I am leaning toward bad wiring. My horn would not work and found some corroded wiring under the under hood fuse box. Can I replace the #6 injector wiring all the way back to where ever it comes from? ( I do not have a wiring diagram of the fuel injection system yet).

 

I would recommend considering an ECU swap, pretty quick and easy test once you have the bits. As I have counseled others if you buy the matched set and don't need it, you can always sell it for what you pay for it.

Regarding the wiring, yes you can replace it all the way back to the ECU plug if you like.

 

Two questions I have been going over the electronic RAV. I can find a pretty good description of how the injectors are controlled but no wiring diagram. I found a real nice wiring diagram from Land Rover for a 2003 Discovery PDF form but I am not sure if it is correct for a 2000. There appears to be 3 ECMs stacked against each other on the right kick panel. So question #1 where can I find a 2000 wiring diagram and #2 question which one pf the 3 ECMs is the ECU? Thank you in advance!

 

The wiring is the same. Sometimes the colors are different, but the pin out will be identical. As far as I'm aware the '03 wiring diagram is the only one available, but I could be mistaken.

 

My code P0306 came on again after about 200 miles. I removed the code with my Ultra Gauge and the check engine light goes off and then it comes right back on. I inspected the injector wiring and connector but never replaced it. Maybe that will be my next step.

 

I am still getting code 306 miss fire on #6. I took the compression after the engine was hot and it is about 120lb. Adding oil to the cylinder brought the compression up to 155lb. So it looses about 25 lb. after it warms up. The spark plug looks good so it is firing . I have experienced enough gas engines to know they will last a long time even if some of the cylinders are not all perfect. But I am not used to a computer telling me something is wrong. If I drive it the way it is, will the check engine light turn red eventually? Will it just turn the engine off because #6 cylinder is not pulling its share of the load?

 

Do the same compression test with oil on all the cylinders to see if it is more than 10% difference. Check engine light never goes red, will just stay yellow forever with no impact on drivability. You could probably drive it for years like that. You might want to swap injectors, coils, plugs, and wires with another cylinder just to rule those out.

 

I have swapped injectors new plugs coils made new wires have inspected injector wiring. Everything I could think of and what everyone on here can think of and still the 306 code. 185K miles the engine is showing some wear. Then for just a work rig, 40 miles round trip a day the engine could last quite a while.