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rear anfd front wheel hub...the same?

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Old Feb 19, 2013 | 11:14 PM
  #11  
ZGPhoto's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Burlington, VT
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Have you balanced your tires/ alignment/ check your bushings?
 
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Old Feb 20, 2013 | 12:21 PM
  #12  
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: South Texas
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Yes Sr.. all of that was verified then the two propellers shafts rebuild and the vibration stays there until I change the right wheel hub.. I notice that is gone almost all...planning to change the left one..... hope it will go away any vibration......
 
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Old Mar 7, 2013 | 10:41 PM
  #13  
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2012
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From: South Texas
Default vibration goes....

Hi..
Just to inform... I have changed the left front wheel hub.. this one looks good... but has some vertical play...... if we take the hub and move it side to side or up and down,,, can feel and hear a little tick, tick.......ok it is damaged.....

With this job done the vibrations decrease a 90%........ I do not have the hard vibs..betwen 60 and 70... ...That is great for me and my disco II... The other 10% I believe it is related to the famous Rotoflex... yes it is the only that is actually not changed, why???? because it looks in good conditions... So it is the next in the part list...

I read a lot at the forums about the vibrations.... and all the posts refer to the front and rear driveshafts.... in my case, rebuild this ones didn't solves the problem until the front wheel hubs was changed.... rare but true....

I hope that this info be helpful to anyone....

Regards.. Thanks for your time and help....
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 07:00 PM
  #14  
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Mudding
Joined: May 2007
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From: The Woodlands, Texas
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I know, I know, this is a year old thread, but with all this talk of hubs, I did a search and this thread is relevant to my interests.

Marizcal (or anyone else) if you purchase front hub assemblies with the sensors and install them on the back, then what do/did you do with the extra cable length? I really don't want to cut the cable. It would be nice to just plug it in, but it seems like there will be alot of excess wire to tuck in or hide or whatever.

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 07:55 PM
  #15  
ZGPhoto's Avatar
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From: Burlington, VT
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Trust me, it's a good thing you brought up the old thread. Making new threads on the same question doesn't really help anyone!
 
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 09:10 PM
  #16  
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Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Austin, TX
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Well the longer cable will come in useful if you put in a 3" lift...and less likely to pull out when off roading.....Glad to know the hubs are the same for front or back...never knew that.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 08:19 AM
  #17  
briancbev's Avatar
Mudding
Joined: May 2007
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From: The Woodlands, Texas
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It's long enough where I should have a enough for a 24" lift.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2014 | 09:11 AM
  #18  
Ghaniba's Avatar
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From: Northeastern, CT
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I cut mine the day before yesterday. Left myself an extra 12" -- but I certainly didn't need the extra 8' or whatever. Took me under a minute to strip off the black sleeve and then strip the two white wires inside. Zero probs!

I believe the extra length is if you wanted to follow the original length from the rear right. Cross in front of the fuel tank, up the frame rail, up over the engine under the bonnet and down through the firewall into the passenger footwell. That would have eaten up the extra 8'...

Dave
 
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