Rear Leveling Pump?
Thread Starter
|
Overlanding
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 19
Likes: 0
From:
Rear Leveling Pump?
Hello, 01 Disco 2 w/107k.....rear air bags are all the way down.The pump appears not to be running so I checked the fuse which is good and changed just to make sure. My suspicion is either the pump is bad or some type of regulator or actuator valve...any and all ideas greatly appreciated, Thanks!
Mudding
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
From:
RE: Rear Leveling Pump?
GCS1,
I'm dealing with the same thing myself. I noticed a sag on the RR about 3 weeks ago. I put it off due to other more pressing issues on the rover. 3 days ago, while within sight of my driveway, the rear end dropped all the way down to the bump stop. That last 500 yards about shattered my teeth. lol.
Did you notice a sag on either side? Meaning you walk out in the morning to jump in and the suspension looks low? You start it up and it raises back up. Sound familiar? If this is the case you have either A) a Leaky air bag aka air spring aka air bellow. OR B) bad air lines that run from the aforementioned air bag to your compressor. If this is the case, then your compressor has been running a lot trying to keep air in the suspension. Doing this burns the compressor out.
Now if you never noticed the sag and suddenly it dropped on you. This could be possibly be your height sensors acting goofy or failing. I think there is a control unit that handles those sensors which could be wonky too.
So what to do right? Well if you have your stereo/radio code, you can unhook the ground wire on your battery. Leave it off for 5-10 mins. Hook it back up and start it. Why do this? By doing this control unit kinda "forgets" the hiccup, and your pump will buzz back on and lift your disco up. Now that's very wishful thinking, but it's worth a shot of you have the stereo codes.
Now if you don't have the codes. You'll need to take to an independent LR mechanic and have them hook a laptop scanner up to your disco to test that control unit for hiccups and the like.
Back to the sagging scenario. This is the more common problem so I bet this is the problem. What you'll need to do is go to an indy LR mechanic and ask them to check out that compressor for you. They will basically bypass all the computers, control units, etc and force the compressor to fire up. (i've heard of guys doing this with wiring over things and "jumping it" i don't recommend this). Now your compressor will probably come on, but will choke, gag and otherwise sound terrible as it grows close to overheating a seizing. BUT it will fill the air bags back up. They will then be able to locate the leaky problem, be it bag or air line.
So down to brass tacks, how much, right? I just bought a rebuilt compressor from roverlandparts for $275. I bought both air bags from Arnott at $130 each. Why did I buy both bags when my RR had the leak? Well, if you have one new bag and one older bag, the new bag will probably air up a little stouter than the other. Which means your suspension could be a little off. The height sensors could read this as an issue and call the compressor to put more air in the older bag. Which means your compressor could be running more than it should. See the reoccurring theme here? So if you replace one bag, replace them both. And Arnott has a lifetime warranty on the bags. So piece of mind is another great reason to do them both. Next is labor costs.
I'm going to put my compressor and bags on myself. I called my indy mechanic to find out pricing. He charges $75 per hour. He said it would cost roughly $250-$300 to do the work. I looked at the compressor (under the driver side door) and there's basically a few air lines and a electrical plug, and I think 3 bolts holding everything together. Can probably do that in less than 30 mins. The air springs require you to jack up your vehicle, remove tire, remove clips, twist 90 degrees, remove air line, replace air spring, and repeat steps backwards. So I'm thinking 30 mins tops per side. So if you've got a couple wrenches and possible some pliers, tools to remove tire, jack and jack stands, you're set. And I'm thinking the jack stands due to safety, but more for the extra work room working room in there.
Hope this helps. And if I left anything out, someone will chime in. Good luck.
-W
I'm dealing with the same thing myself. I noticed a sag on the RR about 3 weeks ago. I put it off due to other more pressing issues on the rover. 3 days ago, while within sight of my driveway, the rear end dropped all the way down to the bump stop. That last 500 yards about shattered my teeth. lol.
Did you notice a sag on either side? Meaning you walk out in the morning to jump in and the suspension looks low? You start it up and it raises back up. Sound familiar? If this is the case you have either A) a Leaky air bag aka air spring aka air bellow. OR B) bad air lines that run from the aforementioned air bag to your compressor. If this is the case, then your compressor has been running a lot trying to keep air in the suspension. Doing this burns the compressor out.
Now if you never noticed the sag and suddenly it dropped on you. This could be possibly be your height sensors acting goofy or failing. I think there is a control unit that handles those sensors which could be wonky too.
So what to do right? Well if you have your stereo/radio code, you can unhook the ground wire on your battery. Leave it off for 5-10 mins. Hook it back up and start it. Why do this? By doing this control unit kinda "forgets" the hiccup, and your pump will buzz back on and lift your disco up. Now that's very wishful thinking, but it's worth a shot of you have the stereo codes.
Now if you don't have the codes. You'll need to take to an independent LR mechanic and have them hook a laptop scanner up to your disco to test that control unit for hiccups and the like.
Back to the sagging scenario. This is the more common problem so I bet this is the problem. What you'll need to do is go to an indy LR mechanic and ask them to check out that compressor for you. They will basically bypass all the computers, control units, etc and force the compressor to fire up. (i've heard of guys doing this with wiring over things and "jumping it" i don't recommend this). Now your compressor will probably come on, but will choke, gag and otherwise sound terrible as it grows close to overheating a seizing. BUT it will fill the air bags back up. They will then be able to locate the leaky problem, be it bag or air line.
So down to brass tacks, how much, right? I just bought a rebuilt compressor from roverlandparts for $275. I bought both air bags from Arnott at $130 each. Why did I buy both bags when my RR had the leak? Well, if you have one new bag and one older bag, the new bag will probably air up a little stouter than the other. Which means your suspension could be a little off. The height sensors could read this as an issue and call the compressor to put more air in the older bag. Which means your compressor could be running more than it should. See the reoccurring theme here? So if you replace one bag, replace them both. And Arnott has a lifetime warranty on the bags. So piece of mind is another great reason to do them both. Next is labor costs.
I'm going to put my compressor and bags on myself. I called my indy mechanic to find out pricing. He charges $75 per hour. He said it would cost roughly $250-$300 to do the work. I looked at the compressor (under the driver side door) and there's basically a few air lines and a electrical plug, and I think 3 bolts holding everything together. Can probably do that in less than 30 mins. The air springs require you to jack up your vehicle, remove tire, remove clips, twist 90 degrees, remove air line, replace air spring, and repeat steps backwards. So I'm thinking 30 mins tops per side. So if you've got a couple wrenches and possible some pliers, tools to remove tire, jack and jack stands, you're set. And I'm thinking the jack stands due to safety, but more for the extra work room working room in there.
Hope this helps. And if I left anything out, someone will chime in. Good luck.
-W
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
