I would run my rear pan hard bar with the upper mounting point on the driver side and keep the rear pan hard level with the axle and as long as you can make it. That would make the arch from your pan hard smaller on droop so your rear axle wont want to pull and push more and if its mounted the same way as the front (top link mount on driverside) they'll pull and push in the same direction so less steer from both overall.


I'm not saying the way either of you did it is wrong or that its dangerous in anyway, because the arches are so small that the rear axle movement is really minor, but if they do it this way bushings will last a tiny bit longer and will have stock feels on the road.


Also, I'll probably be doing this first before a 4-link, I want to keep my ACE and a 4-link might not work well with that sway bar there.

 

The farther apart the mounting points/the longer the panhard bar, the less arc it will make during articulation. Same set-up used to upgrade Fox Body mustangs to a 3-link.

 

20% off for some mothers day deal, if anyone is considering.

 

^saw that! Can't wait to see how this kit does with the longer shocks...

 

would it be possible to do this with a stock panhard bar off of the front of a disco? that way there would be the curve in the bar where the pumpkin is that way they wouldn't hit each other.