Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement
#1
12-22-2017, 08:39 AM
Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement
Looks like it's time to replace the right rear wheel speed sensor. The RAVE describes replacing the hub assembly including the sensor but not the sensor only. I searched the forum but found nothing very useful.
Replacement sensors are sold with long wires and it's intended that instead of plugging the new sensor into the original harness connector near the wheel we're to instead route the wire for the new sensor all the way to the SLABS and splice it into the harness near the SLABS. I don't know why this is unless there was a high failure rate with the original harnesses, which would seem surprising. There's a YouTube video showing a guy splicing a new sensor onto the old connector instead of running the wire to the SLABS and doing the splice there.
Removing the old sensor seems straightforward, but I don't have the truck with me to see how tricky it is to run the wiring from the right rear to the SLABS. Is it straightforward? How's that been for you who've done it?
Also, I see L8 sells what appears to be an OE sensor ($165) and an aftermarket version ($44). Does anyone have any experience to indicate the aftermarket version isn't the way to go? Thanks.
Replacement sensors are sold with long wires and it's intended that instead of plugging the new sensor into the original harness connector near the wheel we're to instead route the wire for the new sensor all the way to the SLABS and splice it into the harness near the SLABS. I don't know why this is unless there was a high failure rate with the original harnesses, which would seem surprising. There's a YouTube video showing a guy splicing a new sensor onto the old connector instead of running the wire to the SLABS and doing the splice there.
Removing the old sensor seems straightforward, but I don't have the truck with me to see how tricky it is to run the wiring from the right rear to the SLABS. Is it straightforward? How's that been for you who've done it?
Also, I see L8 sells what appears to be an OE sensor ($165) and an aftermarket version ($44). Does anyone have any experience to indicate the aftermarket version isn't the way to go? Thanks.
Last edited by mln01; 12-22-2017 at 08:43 AM.
#2
12-22-2017, 10:32 AM
Super Moderator
Looks like it's time to replace the right rear wheel speed sensor. The RAVE describes replacing the hub assembly including the sensor but not the sensor only. I searched the forum but found nothing very useful.
Replacement sensors are sold with long wires and it's intended that instead of plugging the new sensor into the original harness connector near the wheel we're to instead route the wire for the new sensor all the way to the SLABS and splice it into the harness near the SLABS. I don't know why this is unless there was a high failure rate with the original harnesses, which would seem surprising. There's a YouTube video showing a guy splicing a new sensor onto the old connector instead of running the wire to the SLABS and doing the splice there.
Removing the old sensor seems straightforward, but I don't have the truck with me to see how tricky it is to run the wiring from the right rear to the SLABS. Is it straightforward? How's that been for you who've done it?
Also, I see L8 sells what appears to be an OE sensor ($165) and an aftermarket version ($44). Does anyone have any experience to indicate the aftermarket version isn't the way to go? Thanks.
Replacement sensors are sold with long wires and it's intended that instead of plugging the new sensor into the original harness connector near the wheel we're to instead route the wire for the new sensor all the way to the SLABS and splice it into the harness near the SLABS. I don't know why this is unless there was a high failure rate with the original harnesses, which would seem surprising. There's a YouTube video showing a guy splicing a new sensor onto the old connector instead of running the wire to the SLABS and doing the splice there.
Removing the old sensor seems straightforward, but I don't have the truck with me to see how tricky it is to run the wiring from the right rear to the SLABS. Is it straightforward? How's that been for you who've done it?
Also, I see L8 sells what appears to be an OE sensor ($165) and an aftermarket version ($44). Does anyone have any experience to indicate the aftermarket version isn't the way to go? Thanks.
You can still buy the OEM shorter versions off of Ebay. If you go with the Ebay sensors which I got for 50.00 for the entire set I recommend replacing them all at the same time, but it “should” work if replaced separately. It’s honestly just two wires. You can honestly cut the darn thing and use a butt splice on each wire if you actually wanted to and connect em together anywhere.... I’ve done several trail repairs like that and the D2 didn’t know the difference. That’s why I laugh at the 200.00 ABS extension cables. In the rear you can simply just install front ABS sensors and boom longer OEM style without paying an arm and a leg!
#4
12-22-2017, 07:15 PM
Super Moderator
Yep I honestly dislike the full length ABS sensors..... All the trail fixes were solid wires vs OEM setup that weren't extended a few inches longer just to be safe, they snapped when they got pulled tight over the frame. Out on the trail I just connected the broken wires with the D2 off, and once the codes were cleared (always carry an OBDII Reader) the D2 was back to working like normal.
The OEM wiring is insulated very well, but just repairing the wires with say some 3M butt connectors with the heatshrink = they'll be sealed up just as good as the OEM connector.
Not sure of the brand ABS sensors I got off of Ebay, but I bought two sets for 2 different D2's I worked on with bad sensors, and the 3 amigos never came back. I wouldn't go super cheap on the sensors, but the one's I've used (OEM style) have been excellent.
The OEM wiring is insulated very well, but just repairing the wires with say some 3M butt connectors with the heatshrink = they'll be sealed up just as good as the OEM connector.
Not sure of the brand ABS sensors I got off of Ebay, but I bought two sets for 2 different D2's I worked on with bad sensors, and the 3 amigos never came back. I wouldn't go super cheap on the sensors, but the one's I've used (OEM style) have been excellent.
#5
12-22-2017, 08:33 PM
#6
12-23-2017, 08:47 AM
Super Moderator
I know that's what I'm saying = Don't bother with buying the longer one piece ABS sensors. Stick with the OEM plug ones, get front ones for the rear (longer if your D2 is lifted), and either use the OEM plugs or just cut/splice above the frame rail, and call it a day.
I had to laugh at the idiots that installed the one piece ABS sensor wiring into my 04 D2 for the front sensors....... Passenger side they did semi decent except the wire was routed across stuff it shouldn't be near and it went as high as the glove box = not necessary. The Driver side = OMG it comes into the D2, then it proceeds to go down out of the dash then across the front of the brake/gas pedals before it then goes behind the HVAC box and then to the SLABS unit..... Needless to say I fixed that ASAP. My OEM wiring was still there so I metered em out and cut/spliced them back into the SLABS unit and replaced the front sensors with the shorter OEM style & once I did Option B (the actual problem vs sensors anyways = ZERO 3 Amigo's/Musketeers lol
I had to laugh at the idiots that installed the one piece ABS sensor wiring into my 04 D2 for the front sensors....... Passenger side they did semi decent except the wire was routed across stuff it shouldn't be near and it went as high as the glove box = not necessary. The Driver side = OMG it comes into the D2, then it proceeds to go down out of the dash then across the front of the brake/gas pedals before it then goes behind the HVAC box and then to the SLABS unit..... Needless to say I fixed that ASAP. My OEM wiring was still there so I metered em out and cut/spliced them back into the SLABS unit and replaced the front sensors with the shorter OEM style & once I did Option B (the actual problem vs sensors anyways = ZERO 3 Amigo's/Musketeers lol
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JUKE179r (10-22-2018)
#7
12-23-2017, 10:12 PM
Looks like it's time to replace the right rear wheel speed sensor. The RAVE describes replacing the hub assembly including the sensor but not the sensor only. I searched the forum but found nothing very useful.
Replacement sensors are sold with long wires and it's intended that instead of plugging the new sensor into the original harness connector near the wheel we're to instead route the wire for the new sensor all the way to the SLABS and splice it into the harness near the SLABS. I don't know why this is unless there was a high failure rate with the original harnesses, which would seem surprising. There's a YouTube video showing a guy splicing a new sensor onto the old connector instead of running the wire to the SLABS and doing the splice there.
Removing the old sensor seems straightforward, but I don't have the truck with me to see how tricky it is to run the wiring from the right rear to the SLABS. Is it straightforward? How's that been for you who've done it?
Also, I see L8 sells what appears to be an OE sensor ($165) and an aftermarket version ($44). Does anyone have any experience to indicate the aftermarket version isn't the way to go? Thanks.
Replacement sensors are sold with long wires and it's intended that instead of plugging the new sensor into the original harness connector near the wheel we're to instead route the wire for the new sensor all the way to the SLABS and splice it into the harness near the SLABS. I don't know why this is unless there was a high failure rate with the original harnesses, which would seem surprising. There's a YouTube video showing a guy splicing a new sensor onto the old connector instead of running the wire to the SLABS and doing the splice there.
Removing the old sensor seems straightforward, but I don't have the truck with me to see how tricky it is to run the wiring from the right rear to the SLABS. Is it straightforward? How's that been for you who've done it?
Also, I see L8 sells what appears to be an OE sensor ($165) and an aftermarket version ($44). Does anyone have any experience to indicate the aftermarket version isn't the way to go? Thanks.
Mine shows codes for bad ABS sensors and all of the lights are on (abs, traction control, hill descent)- - for a couple of years, now--but I still have hill descent, traction control, and abs, and used all three today and several times recently, so the lights and codes, on mine, are bearing false witness.
Atlantic British has a video (maybe mentioned already) that suggests using the long ones. I'm a cheapskate, so that's out.
As for running the wires if you get long ones, they go on top of the transmission and emerge in a loom by the coils, then to the passenger side and through the firewall.
Last edited by Charlie_V; 12-24-2017 at 08:12 PM.
#8
12-24-2017, 04:19 PM
Best4x4, do you recall or can you check the eBay seller from which you bought your sensors? As OffroadFrance noted some forum members have had fitment problems with aftermarket sensors. Thanks.
#9
12-24-2017, 06:48 PM
Super Moderator
#10
12-24-2017, 08:14 PM
