Rebuild stock front driveshaft or buy aftermarket?
#11
01-30-2014, 05:26 PM
That might work, and I don't remember trying that, though I might have. But I have to say that on mine, I'd be surprised if it didn't break the screwdrivers, because they could only be partially inserted.
I still needed the dremel to then cut the ball's sleeve in half to get it out.
This is after the torch and slide hammer failed.
The aftermarket shaft I did was easy compared to stock. Everything came right out.
Like I said, I'd buy one rather than rebuild the stocker.
I still needed the dremel to then cut the ball's sleeve in half to get it out.
This is after the torch and slide hammer failed.
The aftermarket shaft I did was easy compared to stock. Everything came right out.
Like I said, I'd buy one rather than rebuild the stocker.
#12
01-30-2014, 05:35 PM
Baja
These shafts are a pain to rebuild, and I've rebuilt several driveshafts. I have rebuilt the stock shaft and an aftermarket one, and the stocker was much more challenging.
On the stock shaft, the centering ball is very difficult to extract and often requires creative solutions. The centering ball is very important to replace - in many cases it is what makes the u-joints fail.
All the parts are available under the original part numbers; in the last year I bought mine off ebay, and got some from my local shop (I think it was Advance, but really don't remember).
As I recall, it was ~$30 for the centering ball, then about $30 for the u-joints. You will also need to buy a slide hammer and, if you are like me, a dremel and cutoff wheel to cut the centering ball and sleeve in half for extraction. So I'd guess another $60 for those. Meanwhile, you can get a new shaft for $240 shipped. So is a few hours of your time worth $120 to you?
I probly would buy a new one if I had to do it again.
On the stock shaft, the centering ball is very difficult to extract and often requires creative solutions. The centering ball is very important to replace - in many cases it is what makes the u-joints fail.
All the parts are available under the original part numbers; in the last year I bought mine off ebay, and got some from my local shop (I think it was Advance, but really don't remember).
As I recall, it was ~$30 for the centering ball, then about $30 for the u-joints. You will also need to buy a slide hammer and, if you are like me, a dremel and cutoff wheel to cut the centering ball and sleeve in half for extraction. So I'd guess another $60 for those. Meanwhile, you can get a new shaft for $240 shipped. So is a few hours of your time worth $120 to you?
I probly would buy a new one if I had to do it again.
It is very satisfying having achieved a the stock shaft rebuilds (luckily I had the Dremel and slide hammer already and made up a special centering bearing puller) but then after spray painting them and standing back admiring them one didn't notice the pain and blood dripping out of the grazed knuckles and the scars and grazes on the forehead from banging it against the wall in the garage out of frustration, but, it's all taken in ones stride when owning Landrovers, errr, help needed, does anyone know a good neurosurgeon for cranium trauma's.
Front shaft rebuild kit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER...item3f2fd18b12
Rear shaft rebuild kit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER...item3f215c9d8d
Plus: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER...item565ded1dbf
This lot is not cheap by any means but is the original OEM GKN kit but heavy duty UJ's instead. I don't know what you'd get for €50 bucks but if it's original OEM quality kit I'd certainly go for it.
Last edited by OffroadFrance; 01-30-2014 at 05:47 PM.
#14
01-31-2014, 10:41 AM
Recovery Vehicle
U-joints= 11.99 servicable at auto part store. Driveline shop can buy for 8-9 bucks...
If there is nothing wrong with the Cardan Joint, why replace?
My local driveshaft shop replaced the upper two u-joints next to the cardan joint for 40.00, the lower u-joint was already servicable, and nothing wrong with it.
I could understand if you were running 450 hp and 40" tires, you may want to run a 25.00 u-joint...and a driveline loop
If there is nothing wrong with the Cardan Joint, why replace?
My local driveshaft shop replaced the upper two u-joints next to the cardan joint for 40.00, the lower u-joint was already servicable, and nothing wrong with it.
I could understand if you were running 450 hp and 40" tires, you may want to run a 25.00 u-joint...and a driveline loop
#15
01-31-2014, 10:51 AM
U-joints= 11.99 servicable at auto part store. Driveline shop can buy for 8-9 bucks...
If there is nothing wrong with the Cardan Joint, why replace?
My local driveshaft shop replaced the upper two u-joints next to the cardan joint for 40.00, the lower u-joint was already servicable, and nothing wrong with it.
I could understand if you were running 450 hp and 40" tires, you may want to run a 25.00 u-joint...and a driveline loop
If there is nothing wrong with the Cardan Joint, why replace?
My local driveshaft shop replaced the upper two u-joints next to the cardan joint for 40.00, the lower u-joint was already servicable, and nothing wrong with it.
I could understand if you were running 450 hp and 40" tires, you may want to run a 25.00 u-joint...and a driveline loop
#16
01-31-2014, 10:55 AM
Pro Wrench
Granted, there's not 450HP, but that's not the issue. The issue is when it breaks, you've got 4 tires on the ground and a 2 ton brick going 65MPH trying to turn that driveline still. That's probably at least 450HP worth of pressure.
Last edited by SuperSport; 01-31-2014 at 10:58 AM.
#17
01-31-2014, 11:27 AM
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#18
01-31-2014, 12:11 PM
Pro Wrench
Maybe incorporate both into ONE device?
#19
01-31-2014, 01:03 PM
Recovery Vehicle
I still needed the dremel to then cut the ball's sleeve in half to get it out.
#20
01-31-2014, 03:45 PM
Baja
A sheet of 5/16" aluminium 5 bar treadplate would stop the shaft destroying the transmision. The option is maybe to make it in a large tube fixed to the chassis on flexi mounts so the free (cardan end) if it breaks rolls around inside the alu tube rather than bouncing off the road and generally thrashing about. At worst it would then only destroy the alu tube and not the transmission....................I'll work on it, not that it's ever caused me any problems with the cardan in 120K miles and even then it was only rebuilt as a precautionary measure due to some vibes. However, the TD5 doesn't have the same power or grunt of the V8.