Installing a new ignition switch and was going to rekey the new Britpart ignition barrel tumbler with the old tumbler's pins so I could use my original key, but I couldn't get the tumbler out of the Britpart piece because this strange bolt in the picture refused to come out.The tumbler on the old barrel came out fine, and the bolt wasn't there to hold it into place, so I was able to remove the pins from that one easily. Anyone have an idea on how to remove this without totally hacking the surrounding metal to shreds? It doesn't unscrew, it just spins in place. Gripped it with pliers and got a little grab to pull up with moderate strength, no give.

For others' reference, my old ignition switch was so bad the vehicle literally turned to on to the accessory position in the driveway without a key in it. Fuel pump (it's a TD5) started whining and lights dinging. Lots of gremlins like this from ignition switch faults, and thankfully I just got the new switch in yesterday when this "remote start" scenario happened. Other symptoms included all the lights on the dash staying on with the key removed; the starter making a grinding noise after vehicle start, because the ignition switch wouldn't release the starter so the starter kept trying to engage, even after the engine had turned on. WD40 gave me a few weeks relief a couple times, but ultimately there was no way around a new ignition barrel. Only annoying thing about a new ignition barrel is you have a new key that doesn't match your door key, so you have to carry two keys everywhere, which is obnoxious. Rekeying the tumbler in the new ignition barrel with the old tumbler's pins isn't too hard, plenty of videos on YouTube on how to do this, just requires exercising caution to not mix up the arrangement of the pins.

By the way, the new ignition barrel is $55 from island4x4 vs. $220 from AB. Come on AB, that's price gouging.

 

My disco came without keys or cats. It was an abandoned car that had been claimed via proper channels.

I got the key codes from the local Rover dealer and had a key cut from codes. No joy. So I pulled the drivers door cylinder and had keys made to fit that. That key wouldn't turn the ignition.

I was done throwing key money at it, so I rekeyed the cylinder myself to fit the key that fit the door. As I recall, that is a rivet, not a screw. You have to drill it out. Most replace it with a set screw based on what I remember reading. Although I am not sure that is the same place I had to drill the rivet. That may be a pin that is crimped in place.

I think this thread at another forum was one of the useful guides:

https://www.lrukforums.com/threads/s...t-turn.107760/

This is also UK TD5 specific in case there are differences between a US V8 and a UK TD5.

Best of luck!

 

No keys, that took some guts to take on that Landy! Thanks for sharing how you got it sorted.

That thread you linked had the answer, thanks so much! I’d searched and not found anything explaining it that well. I’ll try drilling out the pin and report back.

As an aside, I hadn’t even thought of ditching a couple of wafers during the swap, as for me, as with many in the thread, it’s only the front couple wafers that are sticking with my key, not the back ones. Brilliant.

 

I drilled out that locking bolt and sure enough, after only about 30 seconds of drilling, the part came tumbling out and I was able to remove the tumbler. I still don't understand what was keeping that piece in place. I ended up swapping the tumblers from the old ignition barrel to the new one, and now I have a new ignition barrel and ignition switch, but since it has the old tumbler, my old key works! No more carrying around two keys.

 

I was able to remove that bit with pliers. Sort of like pulling a tooth out. It is more of a nail than a screw, with spiral ribs. Put it back together and dabbed a bit of silicon caulk on it to keep it in place. Still going strong years later.