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Removing Fender Flares

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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 09:07 PM
  #1  
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Default Removing Fender Flares

I'm new here and I am looking for some help with my 03 Disco II. My Fender Flares are very worn and I have bought new ones to replace them. I know its just adhesive, but has anyone here every removed these before? Thanks a ton.


Cheers,

Mb
 
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 02:04 AM
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Default RE: Removing Fender Flares

Hi,
I have some experience with these puppies.I replaced mine a couple of years ago because of UV fading damage.Actually Land Rover Canada supplied all brand new replacments just before the warranty ran out.I'm in the collision business so I've had lots of experience with automotive trim.I wish I could tell you they come off quick,but that's just not the case.If you have no experience doing this kind of task,I would strongly suggest you bring the truck to the dealer or your local auto body shop because it will require a skilled hand to remove the old flares and adhesive without damaging the paint.Trust me on this,spend a few extra bucks and have someone who has the right equipment and skill tackle this one,because it can be a bugger of a job.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 04:34 PM
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Thanks for the tip! I really appreciate it. I'm only about 60 mins from a LR dealership so it should be a problem. have a good one!


-Mike
 
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 04:52 PM
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Default RE: Removing Fender Flares

I have had to remove some of the molding parts from my 99 D2. I ffouund that a hair dryer held at a distance while pulling off the moldings work great, just let the heat loosen the glue strips and your set.
Mike
 
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 12:25 PM
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Hey Thanks Mike,

Any particular angle for this in terms of from underneath or over the top?

Later,

MikeB
 
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 02:35 PM
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Default RE: Removing Fender Flares

I wouls statr peeling one of the molding loose and apply heat to the sides blowing towards the glue strip on the back of the moldings. Heat will make the glue strips soften and peel of easily then clean the whole are with a goo solvent to remove any old residue.
Mike
 
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 05:45 PM
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got it! thanks mike...really appreciate it.

later,

mike
 
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 12:17 AM
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....or you can do what Disco Mike suggested. In my shop I like to use a heat lamp to heat the entire flare and then use a stiff plastic squeegee to seperate the 3M tape from the body.I use an eraser wheel to remove any leftover adhesive.I keep forgetting that there are other ways to execute this job and that some folks don't always need (or want) to have someone else do their work for them.Sorry for doubting your ability,I suppose I've had to fix to many do-it-yourself jobs to still remember that there are a lot of folks who can stilldo a job properly.....It's still a bugger job!
 
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 01:00 AM
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Be careful with the heat, too much and you can bubble your paint. (Not going to get there with a normal hair dryer, but a "heat gun" can easily destroy a paint job, ask how I know...[])
 
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 12:51 PM
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These are all great tips! thanks for all the help....what would you recommend is a good double sided tape for the new set? I'm sure 3m is great, but in terms of thickness and width? Sorry to beat a dead horse...just want to get it right.

Cheers,

Mike
 
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