Right, for the first time in ages I now need some help!!!. I have tried to remove the rear wheel bearing in it's housing on my D2 having removed the 4# bolts, it seems to be stuck fast, probably with rust. I have tried to hammer the housing with a 4lb club hammer and drift first and then use a 3' pry bar with no success. Short of using some heat on the axle side of the casing I'm stumped. It's the first time of removal in 13+ years due to the O ring leaking diff oil onto the brake pads and rotor. It failed the CT test on this rear brake.

I did have to resort to heating the caliper carrier 12 point bolts also and used a 3' tube with an 1/2" AF impact socket as they were very difficult to move. However the heat seems to have worked the trick OK on them.

A simple 3 hour task seems to have turned into a 5 hour nightmare job and I'm nowhere near complete as yet as I still have to remove the bearing and housing and then re-assemble everything.

Any ideas or tips will be gratefully received.

 

This^^^^if the bearing is junk (which I presume is the case)

Just don't get crazy with the heat, slightly warm the whole end of the axle housing around the bearing...and knock it off/out.

Good luck,

Brian.

 

been there....swore at that...
I ended up buying an air impact hammer.....the best $25 I ever spent, it still took a while but with a little penetrating oil and some air power it came off

 

Yes, the air-hammer is a great tool for this job also.

Another trick I've used...get some longer bolts (about a half inch longer than original ones, grade 8) and install them in the hub...and hit them evenly (with the air-hammer or regular hammer), moving around in a circle, from the backside. This kind of gives you a better, more direct pushing the hub-bearing straight out of the axle housing action.

Don't use you original bolts, since they will most-likely get ruined.

EDIT:

A lot of folks like to use a chisel bit and force it between the hub and axle...just becareful using this method...you can bugger up the axle housing pretty good if things get out of hand.

Good luck.

Brian.

 

Some excellent ideas coming from you guys, tomorrow I'll attack the job again initially using light to medium heat and install some long 8.8 bolts and put the air vibro impact wrench on them with a flat ground headed chisel working in a circular direction and hopefully shock these 'sob's' into moving the whole bearing housing. I think once it breaks the seal and moves it'll come out reasonably easily and quickly. Fingers crossed eh

 

i was able to get my two front bearings off with a puller and an impact wrench. It was not easy.

 

Hi CollieRover, I am actually trying to take out the bearing with the shaft attached although I have new stake nuts as I am only replacing the leaking O ring and brake pads at present although later on, in spring when warmer, I have new TF SS brake hoses, calipers, carriers and drilled + grooved rotors to install. I am just doing the minimum at present to pass the CT inspection test recall in early January 2017.

In March/April when the weather is warmer I'll replace most of the braking system and the Watts and Panhard bushes at the same time.

 

That's the rear RHS done, a big thank you to all you guys that helped me, it's much appreciated.

The story, I had to heat the axle side liberally and inserted some long bolts into the threads (I didn't use the original bolts just in case I trashed them) I then used a small G clamp round the axle brake carrier onto the head of the nearest of the 4# bolts then re-heated the axle side casing again liberally. After this I hammered the other 3 bolt heads with a 4lb club hammer, it then moved about 0.020" so I continued tightening the G clamp and hammering the other bolt heads and slowly, very slowly the bearing and half shaft came out. It was the O ring leaking due to the accumulation of rust around it which had got underneath also. I clened all the surafes up with a manual brass wire brush albeit I couldn't find my rotary brass wire brushes, I then fitted and greased the new O ring after washing all the parts in brake cleaner and used an air line to dry them. Then I had another cup of tea, about the third one while the parts were drying off. Then I liberally coated all the surfaces with RTV whilst avoiding the new O ring and re-inserted the bearing housing and half shaft into the truck and inserted the 4 original bolts. Before finishing off I have parked the truck outside the garage with a ramp under the rear drivers side wheel (it's a LHD US type) to force the oil across to check for leaks if there are no leaks I'll finish off tomorrow and put the caliper, carriers and some new brake pads in both sides.

As a matter of interest, you'll need 4# grade 8 M10x1.75x 75-100mm long bolts to use for hammering the SOB out but at the room on the backside of the brake is very limited so use a heavy hammer.

Two real SOB's, driving an auto using the handbrake only and keep putting the wheel on and off, it's bl--dy heavy

Once again, many thanks to you guys.

 

The reason you couldn't find your rotary brass wire brushes...is because you needed them...now that you are done...they will appear out of thin air.

This has been my findings on such things anyway...lol.

Glad it came a part and is making its way back together. Almost time to switch from tea to wine in celebration.

Brian.

 

You are spot on Brian, I've probably put them in a 'safe place' and I'll inevitably find them when I don't need them

I have to admit that the guys on this website always come up trumps (scuse the pun) when I have needed them, it goes to show wherever you live and whoever you are there are no barriers to likeminded enthusiasts.