I hear ya, I went through (2) 1/2" breakers yesterday.

I plan on reusing the existing 32mm nut unless I tear it up.

The only reason I didn't go with the 3/4" breaker is that I couldn't find a 3/4" 32mm socket. I am going to try to track one down at Sears today as the parts are showing up tomorrow and I want to get this buttoned up by Wednesday

 

I used an electric 1/2" impact gun I got from Lowes to pull off three of these nuts so far. It doesn't happen instantly, but after several seconds they come loose.

 

LOL. I am not going to say I told you "multiple times."

I am not sure where some of the people here live but I have a feelng they live where WD40 rains from the sky.

Simple torque won't do it. I said this a few times already. It is the impact that loosens things up.

PB blaster oil helps. If you want something that works better Kroil does the job better from my experience. I use all of WD40, PB blaster oil and Kroil.

Forget generic guideline people are giving you. Go to HarborFreight pick up EarthQuake impact wrench. Buy a compressor that can run it from them as well. Check return policy if you are really pinching penny.

I have been where you have been. Why relive the pain?

Doing this job right yourself already paid for the tools. Be warned.. This mentality got me about 3 bay garage full of tools.

 

I concur with that statement. Hell we all gotta have good tools. I know for years, matco, snap on, and mac tools, had me with hellacious tool bills. I know I have upwards of 60k in tools and even 1" and 1 1/2" impact drivers and sockets. You gotta have the right tools for any job no matter what the task is. If you don't, either buy em or become great friends with a mechanic or neighbor that has a shop full. As for harbor freight, they are great to get tools that you will seldom use that way when it breaks no biggie but if you want something long term, get a good name brand with a warranty. I still own a lot of craftsman from when I first started turning wrenches and even though now I only do it on my own and my friends vehicles, I still go get some craftsman tools if it is something I will use over and over. I know a lot of sears and kmarts are closing but fastenal honors the craftsman warranty, just an FYI

 

For me having the right tools means if I am going to do the job or not.

One thing is the right tool makes the job safe. If you get hurt doing something trying to save some, you failed miserably there.

Second is time. Your work goes faster and gets done right.

I have bought many things from Harbor Freight.

Mission critical stuff, I invest but HarborFreight does have selection and gets 95 percent of job that an average DIYer would ever imagine getting themselves involved with.

I would go with Husky over Craftsman. Some tools I have seen with Craftsman that its quality has gone down so badly over the years it is ridiculous.

I just returned a set to buy Husky.

​​​​​​I would have preferred Craftsman maybe 5 years ago. Husky is backed by HomeDepot. I don't see Home Depot going anywhere.

Snapons... I cannot justify cost with that brand. If you do things professionally and can write off tools that would be the only reason why I would think about buying them. I'd rather have B&M store to get things exchange if something breaks though.

 

Don't forget that the major parts stores will loan (with deposit) major hand tools. You can get a professional grade breaker bar, etc. I would let them know you need something substantial to remove a high torque rated nut. Take tool back and get your deposit back.

 

I took out the whole bearing housing including the half shaft to replace a leaking O ring so no need to undo the staked bearing wheel nut. If you jack up the axle high enough on one side to be worked on there is no need to drain down the diff as no oil runs out. It's easy to judge or use a spirit level under the axle casing to judge the right height.

 

Drained the rear diff first

With the 3/4" breaker + cheater bar and 3/4" 32mm both sides broke free with minimum effort. Of course both sides soaked in PB Blaster over night and hit them with a torch last night as well.

Everything came out with some tapping from the mallet no drama

My only hang up now is disconnecting the ABS sensor from the plug. Looked at it for a bit and could figure out how to disconnect it from the plug attached to the frame. Looking at diagrams now but, if anyone can let me know how to quickly disconnect it I am golden till the new parts arrive tomorrow.

 

Good one. The sensor socket is latched and also very tight to pull out. It'll also display a code once you change it so you'll need to use a OBD2 diag to delete the code unless you have disconnected the battery first.

I used a small 1/8" wide blade screwdriver to prise the plug and socket apart, it's a bit of a SOB in many cases.

 

I have the icarsoft LRII for the codes so no sweat there.

I am still looking for a sensor socket diagram so I don't force the latch and break it. Maybe when the new parts come tomorrow it will make better sense.