Replace the front double cardan with a single cardan?
#11
#12
#13
I ve read some other people that installed the defender propshaft on their disco 2 with success, even though at the same thread you can read this common advice of not doing that...
#14
We know for well, this is not a myth. Search this an any other LR forum. "Driveshaft Tweet Tweet".
The driveshaft yoke (u-joint) sits millimeters away from the catalytic converter. The radiant heat from the cat bakes grease out of the joint until dry, increasing friction and wear ultimately, resulting in catastrophic failure. At failure the joint snaps (usually under heavy load and high speed) spins violently - enter the transmission. The driveshaft spinning violently; until you bring the DII to a stop, has lost lost all balance, has no option but to reach its hand out for stability grabs ahold of the Trans for dear life leaving a nice big "inspection window" into the side of the Trans housing.
Scary, huh?
The driveshaft yoke (u-joint) sits millimeters away from the catalytic converter. The radiant heat from the cat bakes grease out of the joint until dry, increasing friction and wear ultimately, resulting in catastrophic failure. At failure the joint snaps (usually under heavy load and high speed) spins violently - enter the transmission. The driveshaft spinning violently; until you bring the DII to a stop, has lost lost all balance, has no option but to reach its hand out for stability grabs ahold of the Trans for dear life leaving a nice big "inspection window" into the side of the Trans housing.
Scary, huh?
#15
#16
#17
We know for well, this is not a myth. Search this an any other LR forum. "Driveshaft Tweet Tweet".
The driveshaft yoke (u-joint) sits millimeters away from the catalytic converter. The radiant heat from the cat bakes grease out of the joint until dry, increasing friction and wear ultimately, resulting in catastrophic failure. At failure the joint snaps (usually under heavy load and high speed) spins violently - enter the transmission. The driveshaft spinning violently; until you bring the DII to a stop, has lost lost all balance, has no option but to reach its hand out for stability grabs ahold of the Trans for dear life leaving a nice big "inspection window" into the side of the Trans housing.
Scary, huh?
The driveshaft yoke (u-joint) sits millimeters away from the catalytic converter. The radiant heat from the cat bakes grease out of the joint until dry, increasing friction and wear ultimately, resulting in catastrophic failure. At failure the joint snaps (usually under heavy load and high speed) spins violently - enter the transmission. The driveshaft spinning violently; until you bring the DII to a stop, has lost lost all balance, has no option but to reach its hand out for stability grabs ahold of the Trans for dear life leaving a nice big "inspection window" into the side of the Trans housing.
Scary, huh?
That failure doesn't prove anything, as this can happen with a double cardan joint as well.
Isnt it an argument in favor of a simpler single cardan?
Also, My td5 didnt come with a catalytic converter.
#18
I would get a double cardan only because it is what originally came with the car. Also, the front axle on these cars are solid so even with normal driving, the shaft will move. I got one from Lucky 8 and I haven't had any issues with it ($250 out the door). In fact, the D2 feels a little smoother now.
#19
#20
Front prop shaft failure could smash the side out of your transmission , exhaust or the floor if it fails at any substantial speed
Have you considered rebuilding your existing shaft with greasable joints.
3 joints, ball ang timbale would cost you about $75. A competent mechanic could do the job for you in about an hour if you are not comfortable doing it yourself
Have you considered rebuilding your existing shaft with greasable joints.
3 joints, ball ang timbale would cost you about $75. A competent mechanic could do the job for you in about an hour if you are not comfortable doing it yourself