Replaced Crank Sensor, Runs Rough
Hi guys, This is my first post on this site. I have a 2001 Land Rover Disco II with about 135k on it. I bought it with a blow head gasket about a year go, tore most of the motor down and replaced everything as I rebuilt it. It has been running fine with the exception of a few electrical problems that we can dive into in another post... So, the disco was running fine two days ago, while driving it lost power then, the motor shut off. After doing some research and reading all of the forums and posts, i replaced the Crack sensor. It did not fire right up so after a little more research, i checked voltage at the battery, it was low so we jumped it off and she fired right up. That would all be good if it went back to driving fine but, alas, she now sounds like the timing is off. I had to get it back to my house so i could put it in the garage. I drove it about 25 miles to the house and it lacked power every second. It struggled in low gears/low rpm's but, felt almost fine at highway speed/high rpm's but, still lacked power. Not sure where else to go from here and what else to check. Any ideas or places to start looking would be much appreciated. Thanks, Happy New Year!!
Crank sensor is probably out of spec and tolerance.
Take it out.
Redo the install again.
Note the alignment.
You may also have an aftermarket crank sensor which is not OEM.
If you put in a USED ONE - well you get what you pay for.
Take it out.
Redo the install again.
Note the alignment.
You may also have an aftermarket crank sensor which is not OEM.
If you put in a USED ONE - well you get what you pay for.
I would double check the install of the CPS. Also, have a look at the knock sensor that sits right in front of the CPS. Make sure the knock sensor wiring did not get disturbed while you were fiddling with the CPS.
Did you throw any codes? Any pending codes?
Did you throw any codes? Any pending codes?
I doubt your problem was the CPS, try putting the original one back in and see what happens. Make sure the battery is fully charged or you have auxiliary jumper power.
Why not share with us the codes, then it is not guess work.
Why not share with us the codes, then it is not guess work.
I will try to re-install the sensor this afternoon. I bought the new sensor from advanced auto, I did notice that it is not a Bosh but, it was brand new... I also bought a code scanner over the weekend... But, it will not turn on when connected to the port. I went back to advanced auto because I thought that I needed a different type of reader but, they could not get theirs to connect either... The check engine light is on and does blink when driving... Any ideas on why the scanner port does not have power?
The blinking CEL is not good, I hope you are not running it for long times like that, that will kill your CATs. Get an ultragauge or an ELM 312 reader for your smartphone to get those codes. Any other symptoms while running rough? Loss of coolant?
The light was blinking when the motor went down the first time... After replacing the crank sensor, the light stayed on solid at idle or high rpm's/mph but, would blink at low rpm's, mph. I didn't have to drive it far once I replaced the crank sensor, just limped it back home about 15 miles. I was loosing coolant several weeks ago but, replaced the coolant cap and the cooling issue stopped. I didn't think that the two would be connected.
With the code readers, is there one that is specifically for the Land Rover? They told me the one that I bought would read all vehicles with an obd hook up... It is supposed to tell me the error code and the symptom but does not power the reader/unit up at all...
With the code readers, is there one that is specifically for the Land Rover? They told me the one that I bought would read all vehicles with an obd hook up... It is supposed to tell me the error code and the symptom but does not power the reader/unit up at all...


