In the next week or two I am tearing into my (sagging) headliner. While there, I'll investigate/repair a leaky sunroof. While I have the headliner out, are there any recommendations for what can/should be done while there? I am considering applying sound deadening material on the inner roof, installing a back-up camera by running wires through overhead, and considering wiring for roof rack lighting (for lights to be installed at a later date). Anyone have other suggestions while I have the headliner out?

Thanks in advance

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2004 SE7 in Adriatic Blue
2009 LR3 (sold)

 

Remove the pans, add sealant at the drain corners. Add additional drain fittings in the rear corners to drain even when parked facing uphill. Seal the pan openings where the sunshades clip in and the retainers clip in. I have a pattern for the radiant barrier, you can email me if you want to buy a set (not on the website yet). Dis-assemble the sunroof motors and lubricate the rotors to prevent rust seizing. Going forward operate the sunroof at least once every drive.

 

Extinct is correct, I would epoxy reinforce the drains, they seem to get brittle. Make sure the hoses are clear and well attached.
I stuffed the ceiling with rock wool, which i think helps with sound.
Maybe wire up a rear view camera? Or power for a dash camera mounted behind the rear view mirror.
Does your floor board get wet when it rains? Maybe confirm the a pillar area is not leaking?

 

I have a bad a pillar rust repair done at a shop on the driver side(left) a pilar bottom and it's leaking straight to the drivers footwell floor.
Is there something else than the sunroof drain letting water in the a pillar?

I'll fix the bad repair next summer when I have my own welder etc.

 

Known problem that the sealant applied at the factory on the exteriror front roof corner in the drip rail cracks and leaks. Fill the cracks with silicone. If you search on here or the internet you will find a TSB on it.

 

I suppose this is the TSB You meant?
http://site.lrch.nl/sites/default/files/L8861bu.pdf

Thanks.

Will check the corners.

 

Insert 90 degree right angle fittings in the rear drain lines. The current design has a flaw which prevents proper draining.

 

That's it

 

I regularly weigh in on headliner threads to advocate for stripping and painting vs. new fabric, but I've learned that not all DIIs have the fiberglass shell with the nice pebbly surface that makes painting recommended. I've learned that some have some sort of "softer" shell where painting may not work as well. That may be the '03-'04 facelift trucks; I don't know for sure.

The reasons I advocate painting is that it looks great and since there is no fabric it will never, ever sag again.

It's not the adhesive that fails causing the headliner to sag. It's the thin layer of foam between the fabric and the shell that turns to dust as it ages.

When I stripped and painted the headliner from my truck nearly 14 years ago, after pulling off the fabric I used a stiff brush to remove as much of the foam as possible. I next vacuumed the surface, and then used a brush and denatured alcohol to remove the old adhesive, followed by another pass or two with denatured alcohol and rags.

Once I was satisfied the shell was clean, I primed the surface with KILZ and then applied two coats of a good exterior latex. I took a piece of the old fabric to The Home Depot and the woman in the paint department matched the color very well. The interior of my truck is Bahama Beige. I've included a pic of the paint "formula" for my truck. I used a 4" roller for most of the surface and a small brush in the corners where the roller wouldn't work.

After all these years I remain very, very happy with the result.

 

Here is one other thing I recommend you do while the headliner is out - replace the shock cord for the little cargo nets.