Replacing HG in a couple weeks. Few questionss.
Hi guys, I confirmed that I have a small external HG leak. I'll be tackling this with my VW tech buddy in a couple of weeks. The Disco is new to me with 44k miles. I am looking to use German HG and Lucky8 studs. My questions are if anyone has found that they needed any specialized tools that wouldn't be part of a import mechanic's tool chest? I'll need to get a low ft/lbs torque wrench. Considering that the car has 44k on it, I'll be replacing the thermostat to 180 and probably the water pump, plugs, wires, maybe crank sensor as well. Are there any other components that you guys would recommend at this mileage?
5/8" impact socket for the head nuts (since you say you are using studs).
If you dont undo the mounts and drop the engine or dent the firewall, you will need a swivel for the nut at the bottom corner of #7.
If you dont undo the mounts and drop the engine or dent the firewall, you will need a swivel for the nut at the bottom corner of #7.
General info on assembly.. copper spray works wonders with these engines (my opinion) with no additives on the hg's (no extra rtv) and use a high quality rtv around the water jackets on the Inlet manifold.
A 2' breaker bar with impact sockets does wonders. I heard to do the studs the engine has to come out or you can't get the head over the stud??
A 2' breaker bar with impact sockets does wonders. I heard to do the studs the engine has to come out or you can't get the head over the stud??
you will have no problem installing the heads, what you need to do is install the driver head then install the last few studs by the booster. you also want to go after the rear head bolts first, once you have then broken free the hard part is over.
Not remove...
Just undo the mounts so the engine can drop a couple inches and give space for a couple of bolts near the firewall. Or you can use a swivel socket and get the torque "close enough".
For the other issue, as drow said, put the studs in after the heads are placed on.
Just undo the mounts so the engine can drop a couple inches and give space for a couple of bolts near the firewall. Or you can use a swivel socket and get the torque "close enough".
For the other issue, as drow said, put the studs in after the heads are placed on.
So, from lucky8 I'll be ordering: a gasket kit with Elring head gaskets, ARP studs (with thread lube), throttle body heater kit, and an upgraded water pump. I'll also need to order a 180 thermostat, plugs, and wires. My hoses all look pliable and in good shape. Can anyone think of anything else to address at 44k on a 2004 at this time. I don't necessarily want to make this a super expensive endeavor, but if there are things that I'll be addressing in a few thousand miles, I'd rather get it done when everything is apart.


