Hi,

I have read the posts about the mysterious sloshing sound in the heater core. I am having this problem with my 97 disco right now.The heater only works when I accelerate or turn corners which tells me the heater core is full of air. The coolant transfers into it making the sloshing sound when I accelerate or turn then the air goes back in under normal driving.

I have pulled the cap off the coolant bottle several times trying to get rid of the air. The system is under plenty of pressure so I can't imagine there is a leak anywhere. If I hold the main heater hose while cracking the cap of the coolant bottle I can feel bubbling in the line... almost like a pot of boiling water bubbling. I have heard there could be a head gasket leak but my oil shows no signs of being thick or milky.I'm hoping I just need some magical bleeding process and all will be fixed but realitytells me otherwise.

Any suggestions would be appreciated... I really need a heater in Idaho this time of year!!

 

Are you having to add coolant? Is the passenger side footing moist? Milky oil maynot necesarrily mean you dont have a blown head. It could be internal (in the cylinder). Go to a good shop and have them do a coolant pressure test, you could just have a coolant leak somewhere in the system. That's a good place to start. Sloshing in the heater core is usually the first indication (audible) that your low on coolant. When the vehcle is cool, remove the little plug on the top left of the radiator and add coolant to the resevoir, that should help bleed out your air. Have the heads ever been done on this vehicle? How many miles on her? Either way, your low on coolant so keep a close eye on that temperature gauge. Don't let it overheat, then you'll really be in trouble. Keep us posted, we'll figure it out.

 

Sounds as if you have a head gasket failing, that will cause the coolant level to drop and the noise to start.
Take your truck and have the coolant system pressure tested and have a chemical block test run if need be t verify the leak.
Mike

 

The truck has 150000 miles on it. It's a new heater core and there has been no leaking to the passenger side since the new one was installed. I lost coolant right at first (about a half gallon) but the coolant level has remained the same ever since (about 6 weeks). When it first happened we were snowboarding... started the Disco after the day andthe heaterwouldn't heat up. Checked the coolant and it was low... after driving the heater started working. I topped off the coolant when I got home.shortly after thatmy problem started but the coolant hasn't dropped since then. That was about six weeks ago.

 

My head gasket blew this week 60000 miles. Mike do you have any advice for my mechanic.
Anything you can provide would be great. There are not many landrovers up here in Winnipeg.
Myguesses started with the sloshing I heard.

 

It's not too tough a job at least for a disco 1. It's straight forward, I did mine a few months ago. Get your heads resurfaced and a valve job done at a good machine shop. When I didmine the machinist showed me a bent exhaust valve so it was worth it. At 60,000 I'd replace the water pump, all hoses, thermostat, belt, fan clutch. My water pump siezed on me and was what caused this whole mess at 70000. Replace all the gaskets provided in the kit even if they are not leaking. I'd also get you some new plugs and wires. Mike should have a comment on that. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

The fact that it hasn't been losing coolant is a relief. If you feel 100% its not losing coolant, then my guess it is an air pocket. Have you tried bleeding the system as I stated in my first post? You may have to do it a few times to get it all worked through. Let us know...I still think a coolant pressure test would be a good idea, just so you know for sure.

 

You are loosing coolant or you wouldn't be sloching like you are.
Do as I suggested and have the system pressure tested to find out where the coolant is going, or wait till it overheats on you one day and you drop a sleeve, then you will have a good expense.
Mike

 

I took it in and had the pressure test and block test done. It failed both... they said it was the #8 cylinder with the problem. I have ordered the gasket kit, new head bolts, and serpentine belt (mine is looking a little tired). I called the machine shop I've always used and he is saying best case senario I'll be about $100 to resurface the headsand worst case about $400 to rebuild the heads (for the pair). Is that a good price?

The mechanic I took it to for the tests is trying to tell me the head is cracked and that I have a bottom end knock (which I've never heard). [:@] These mechanics are a joke... they got all mad when I told them I just wanted to take the truck. They wanted to sell my a new engine! Whatever!!

Any advice on this job would be greatly appreciated... I'ts been about 12 years since I built an engine so I'm a bit rusty. I found the torque specs on atlanticbritish.com (that's where I ordered the parts). I've heard it's best to number the placement and direction of the push rods. Is there anything else I need to know?

Thanks in advance,

Erick

 

Make sure you do an ATF engine flush before removing the head. This will make your job alot easier and cleaner with out all the sludge and goo to work around.
With your trucks mileage, I would remove and totally clean the lower end and ths oil pan, make sure the oil pick up tube is clean and secure.
Mike