I may regret that thread title. As noted in the "What I did today" thread, yesterday I took delivery of our new 2001 Discovery Series 2 in Java Black. After a little uncertainty, my wife settled on the name of "Edward," inspired by Edward, the black Prince of Wales. (My wife likes to name cars. Our Rovers get very English names; our Ford trucks get names of actors with the last name of "Ford," etc.) I figured I'd start a thread on reviving this rig, which is pretty straight and correct, but it also has some things wrong with it that need fettling. Here's the list that I started yesterday:

1. Diagnose why the AC isn't working.
2. Diagnose why the cruise control isn't engaging.
3. Fix an aromatic coolant leak that doesn't leave any drips on the ground. I'll take a black light out after dark to see if I can spot the source of the leak. I don't think any of the hoses have ever been changed, and it's overdue....
4a. <<Update>> Make new keys, because the one I received is worn to the point that I have to jiggle it to unlock the ignition lock.--DONE.
4b. <<Update>> Replace the ignition key lock, which is worn out.--Ordered....
5. <<Update>> Diagnose the sloppiness of the steering, which has about 3" of free play... way too much.
6. Diagnose the cause of the amber ACE light (but the system is still working, so maybe just a clogged filter and old, dirty fluid?).
7. <<Maybe an update?>> Buy some remotes and program them into the security module, because this Disco came without its remotes.--The ignition lock comes with a remote, but I don't know if the key has a remote or not, so we'll see.
8. <<New>> Fix the stuck tailgate electric lock motor, or replace it.

Even though I didn't buy this Disco to be a daily driver, I did drive it to work today (38 mi. round trip). I got two copies of the key today, but in the trip back to the office during lunch I couldn't take the key out of the ignition lock. Good thing that I had fresh copies of the key in my pocket, because I just locked the doors with the other keys and went inside. I then immediately ordered a used ignition lock, to arrive in 2-3 days. After a couple of good bumps on the drive home, the key came right out when I got home. Still, that ignition lock has to go.

I also rummaged through my garage to see if I can find my old hitch stinger and ball... and didn't find it, but I found a can of R134a so I'll see if squirting it to the AC can't revive the AC a little. If it has a leak, it probably will just leak out, but it might not, so why not give it a try? If it doesn't work, well, that can has been in my garage for 12 years so it needed to be used at some time.

I appreciate any advice you can offer on these issues, so please feel free to comment.

Scott

 

Time for an update:

1a. <<Update>> Diagnose why the AC isn't working.-- Mostly FIXED... the AC still works, so the leak I heard after topping up with a can of refrigerant isn't fatal. I also replaced the 40A electric cooling fan fuse, which seemed to enable the system. Today, the driver's side blows cool; the rear AC blows cool; the passenger's side blows almost cool, as if the heater valve for the passenger side is not closing fully, so....
1b. Must repair the passenger side heat valve.
2. <<Update>> Diagnose why the cruise control isn't engaging.--FIXED. I replaced the vacuum hose from the vacuum pump to the cruise control vacuum motor. I also reseated the rubber isolators that hold the pump to its bracket.
3. Fix an aromatic coolant leak that doesn't leave any drips on the ground. I'll take a black light out after dark to see if I can spot the source of the leak. I don't think any of the hoses have ever been changed, and it's overdue....--This may be either a leaking passenger side heater valve or the throttle pre-heater plate leak that is apparently notorious on 4.0l engines. I'll chase both.
4a. Make new keys, because the one I received is worn to the point that I have to jiggle it to unlock the ignition lock.--DONE.
4b. <<Update>> Replace the ignition key lock, which is worn out.--Ordered....--DONE. I installed the new key lock and copied the keys. The "new" lock is till slightly balky, so I think I'll look into having a new lock cylinder cut by a Land Rover dealer. $$$$ I had it done for an old BMW 750iL I owned for many years and it wasn't too expensive, but I fear that isn't the same for all dealers.
4c. Revive the remote that came with the new ignition lock, and get it programmed to my Disco.
4d. Get new lock cylinder made to the original key design so I can use one key again.
5. Diagnose the sloppiness of the steering, which has about 3" of free play... way too much.
6. <<Update>> Diagnose the cause of the amber ACE light (but the system is still working, so maybe just a clogged filter and old, dirty fluid?).--I found the ACE fuse had been removed, so I installed a new one. I still have an amber ACE light, but the system does seem to be active.
7. <<Update>> Fix the stuck tailgate electric lock motor, or replace it.--I opened up the rear door on Saturday and found both the rear lock and the rear wiper unplugged. I plugged in both, which fixed the wiper but didn't fix the stuck lock motor. I've researched replacing that motor, and they appear to be cheap, so I'm ordering one. Meanwhile, I buttoned it all up again, and I'll tackle this repair later.

I also got my license plates and mounted them last night.

So the process goes on....

Scott

 

Making progress is always a good thing

 

I'm also "Scott" so thought I'd offer a reply here.

On German cars, BMW, MB that I've worked on in the past, dual zone climate control temps can be directly affected by improper refrigerant pressure.
It might be worth the $$ to have it professionally emptied and filled to the right specs first......

 

Thanks for that tip, Scott. I was thinking that's what I would do, but I didn't know about having different temps on each side from it. I thought there was only one internal heat exchanger for the AC, so live and learn.

Scott

 

You could skip the ignition lock drama and just put a push button start on it for around $40. I have it on mine because the cylinder just gave up and it was really easy. Now my ignition key is a little blue dot.

 

Hmmm... push button start. I definitely hadn't thought of that. I've got to think about that.

Scott

 

Well, I suppose it's time for an update:

1a. Evacuate the front AC, fix leaks, and refill with new refrigerant.
1b. Repair the passenger side heat valve.
3. Fix an aromatic coolant leak.
4c. Revive the remote that came with the new ignition lock, and get it programmed to my Disco.
4d. Get new lock cylinder made to the original key design so I can use one key again.
4e. <<Update>> Get new key with remote and program it into the keyless entry system.-- I got a new key and got it cut, but the attempt to program it failed today because neither of the locksmith's programmers would communicate with my Disco's ODB system.
5. Diagnose the sloppiness of the steering, which has about 3" of free play... way too much.
6. Diagnose the cause of the amber ACE light (but the system is still working, so maybe just a clogged filter and old, dirty fluid?).
7. Fix the stuck tailgate electric lock motor, or replace it.--I have yet to order the new lock motor.
8. Diagnose the "three amigos" error on cool mornings only. There's no problem when the Disco starts up warm, or starts up cold in warm weather.

Scott

 

You're only gonna succeed with having the key fobs programmed by someone with LR specific software. Autologic, Nanocom, etc. Find a local independent euro shop and they should be able to help you out with it.

 

Llama, I've got an appointment with my local British car specialist that I've used off and on since 1989. Oddly, they warned me that sometimes their TestBook can't even program keys into Disco 2's, but they occasionally have success. I wasn't sure if they were trying to manage expectations, or just make themselves look like heros when it works. I'll report back. I just don't want to have to drive all the way to Portland to get this done.

Scott