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Whats the cost in the states for rod bearings and shells replacement on a 2000 Discovery 2 ? You just need to remove the oil pan and replace from below yea ?
Yes, accessible with pan removed. Remove oil from pan (let drip dry for a few minutes, less oil dripping after pan removal), remove chassis bar under pan, remove pan (not just bolts on bottom, some bolts and nuts on front and rear of pan, remove bolts at bottom of crankshaft and remove bearings, check for scoring and out of tolerence at each bearing (could be all good, need polishing, need reducing to next bearing size, or complete replacement), replace as needed, check proper torque, check tolerences, replace pan and bar.
Yes, accessible with pan removed. Remove oil from pan (let drip dry for a few minutes, less oil dripping after pan removal), remove chassis bar under pan, remove pan (not just bolts on bottom, some bolts and nuts on front and rear of pan, remove bolts at bottom of crankshaft and remove bearings, check for scoring and out of tolerence at each bearing (could be all good, need polishing, need reducing to next bearing size, or complete replacement), replace as needed, check proper torque, check tolerences, replace pan and bar.
All you need to do is loosen All the rod caps, and remove All the main caps.
That takes enough pressure off the upper bearing halves for the old ones to be pushed out, and the new ones pushed in.
Push from the bearing from the CPS side of the engine, side that does Not have the recess groove for the lock tab.
The groove is on the starter side, and is easily visible.
Last edited by Sixpack577; 03-10-2020 at 05:34 PM.
Yes, accessible with pan removed. Remove oil from pan (let drip dry for a few minutes, less oil dripping after pan removal), remove chassis bar under pan, remove pan (not just bolts on bottom, some bolts and nuts on front and rear of pan, remove bolts at bottom of crankshaft and remove bearings, check for scoring and out of tolerence at each bearing (could be all good, need polishing, need reducing to next bearing size, or complete replacement), replace as needed, check proper torque, check tolerences, replace pan and bar.
"Chasis bar" under engine doesn't need removed either.
Jack up the suspension, as in, til the suspension is fully extended and the wheels are still touching the ground. Then drop the pan, turn the pan backwards, and it comes out on the rear driver side.
(Yes, the jack and wooden block in the picture are crooked, but aren't supporting anything either, it's just up and holding the block. No need to lower all the way and jack back up. I work safe with multiple jack stands).
Last edited by Sixpack577; 03-10-2020 at 05:29 PM.
I have HD front springs (standard length) and didn't even need to jack up the front to get the pan out.
Bearing shells is a common term. They are the flat, hardened half-circles that fit inside the crankshaft and connecting rod journals.
Even better, as I'de bet your HD springs have not sagged.
I'm sure my front springs have sagged(as the rears noticeably have), and I wasn't lacking much room or needing to jack it up very far either.
03-10-2020 | 03:47 PM
