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Changed the oil again. Copper sheen and little specs of copper. Having a really hard time finding someone to take the job. 5 shops refused the work. 4 shops said they would install a new engine only. Had to pull teeth to get 3 qoutes
Shop 1 $900 for lower bearings + $400 for Plasti Gauge Inspection.No mains. No Warranty.
Sop 2 $1200 for lower bearings. No mains. No Warranty.
Shop 3 - $3,400 Mains + $1200 lower. No Warranty.
Yea you read that right. 1 shop out of 12 and they want $4,600 and can't tell me when they can finish. 17 hours labor for the mains, 6 hours rod bearings. It would be nice to find a gas station mechanic For a better price.
All you need to do is loosen All the rod caps, and remove All the main caps.
That takes enough pressure off the upper bearing halves for the old ones to be pushed out, and the new ones pushed in.
Push from the bearing from the CPS side of the engine, side that does Not have the recess groove for the lock tab.
The groove is on the starter side, and is easily visible.
They are worried about the risk. What if the mains are not the problem and you come back to them, then they have to eat the labor. And at best a 50/50 proposition getting the crucifix seals to not leak. I would not do it for hire. I might do it to my truck, but not for hire. They can barely keep up with the ten year old brake job, sensor replacement, and other easy work. Why take a risk on a 20yo truck that they have limited familiarity with.
Also, I would never, ever, let anyone other than a LR specific shop touch a Disco. Way more they can mess up than fix.
If your doing the job yourself you can change the mains, thrust and rod bearing, use plenty of oil, but remember any replacement bearing you put in, will not take up any wear on the crank itself only what you have lost on the bearing cap, as long as that acceptable it a straightforward job but do check you mains on the crank to check there condition before replacing and bearing
Yes, accessible with pan removed. Remove oil from pan (let drip dry for a few minutes, less oil dripping after pan removal), remove chassis bar under pan, remove pan (not just bolts on bottom, some bolts and nuts on front and rear of pan, remove bolts at bottom of crankshaft and remove bearings, check for scoring and out of tolerence at each bearing (could be all good, need polishing, need reducing to next bearing size, or complete replacement), replace as needed, check proper torque, check tolerences, replace pan and bar.
having trouble turning crank by hand to get to the other 4 rod bearings. I’m probably over looking something small and stupid vehicle is in neutral
Much easier with all the spark plugs out - you will need to break loose all the bolts first before you remove any so you can rotate each cap in to position, then you can remove by hand once you have them all broken loose. The rods once loose from the crank will get in the way of rotations.
If you have already torqued down you bolts, loosen them all off and turn the crank by hand at least 2 revolutions, if needed remove caps ans add more oil, now retighten the one cap and turn crank, twice, torque up and turn crank twice, continue this until either you find the bearing thats binding or its all done and torque up, remember as you do it it will get, harder to turn as you are moving more pistons in the cylinders, turn the crank using a torque wrench, set low, a bind is normally a tight spot the it free off, if the bind is the whole revolution it probably the piston/rings put a bit of oil on the top of the pistons if you can, if it easier ti turn then you have your answer
03-18-2020 | 02:37 AM
