Running hot 4.0
#31
I just took it out for a little drive on some dirt roads close by. I've never had an issue with getting hot on these roads but it got to the red again as soon as I pulled into my house. I was gone maybe 20 minutes. I put the purple ice in before I left, I figured I'd give it a shot but it didnt do anything. As soon as I pulled in I took some reading with my IR thermometer. full disclaimer; it's a harbor freight tool so I dont know how accurate it is but the temps I found were scary to say the least:
228 on the lower heater core hose that's metal
195 on the upper metal h.c. hose
222 on the small hose right off the radiator that goes to the tank
218 on the upper rad hose
160ish on the lower hose (cant remember)
230 on the hoses at the T on top
125 on one of the top rows of the radiator on pass side
165 on one of the top rows of the radiator on driver side
235 on the plastic tank
I also have a brand new coolant leak under my throttle body. It leaked about and inch of fluid out of the tank. I think it's safe to say there's a bigger problem than a tstat. Any suggestions? Anyone have a 4.6 block in the utah/arizona/nevada area?
228 on the lower heater core hose that's metal
195 on the upper metal h.c. hose
222 on the small hose right off the radiator that goes to the tank
218 on the upper rad hose
160ish on the lower hose (cant remember)
230 on the hoses at the T on top
125 on one of the top rows of the radiator on pass side
165 on one of the top rows of the radiator on driver side
235 on the plastic tank
I also have a brand new coolant leak under my throttle body. It leaked about and inch of fluid out of the tank. I think it's safe to say there's a bigger problem than a tstat. Any suggestions? Anyone have a 4.6 block in the utah/arizona/nevada area?
l'd like to see some temps along the bottom of the rad...but just by what you've posted...l'd be changing the stat. Temps should be more balanced, if stat was opening all the way. Or...you have a ton of air in the system.
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cvhyatt (04-30-2020)
#32
You've got 230 at T, then 165 top of rad -drivers side, 125 passenger side of rad, 160 bottom of stat.
l'd like to see some temps along the bottom of the rad...but just by what you've posted...l'd be changing the stat. Temps should be more balanced, if stat was opening all the way. Or...you have a ton of air in the system.
l'd like to see some temps along the bottom of the rad...but just by what you've posted...l'd be changing the stat. Temps should be more balanced, if stat was opening all the way. Or...you have a ton of air in the system.
#33
I’ll let one of the more mechanically inclined people answer. I have limited experience but in my situation, it slipped up. If you ran your finger across it, you can definitely feel it. The reason why I was suggesting to pull the heads is because there is so much that needs to be done on a poorly maintained disco and removing the heads makes it easier. You can replace the wires, coils, a bunch of gaskets, and you can get the heads checked out and decked as well as inspect the cylinders and piston heads for other issues. Do this now and it will keep you from chasing additional gremlins in the the future. My 2 cents. Good luck!
#34
Damn, the erosion between the cylinders is crazy, never seen one that bad.
#37
So my father in laws shop is swamped so I took it for a test drive of my own to get more readings. I bypassed the TBH. Bled it. Drove it down the road for a few minutes and checked everything out. Keep in mind these are rough notes and I was watching these temps and the gauge like a hawk the whole time for any changes:
At idle after few minutes of driving, fan kicked on. 180 at hoses around T. 100 half way down rad both sides. 110 bottom hose of radiator. Tstat 110. Temp gauge then climbed to just under top line
Idle for another 3ish minutes, fan still on, needle in red now. 190-200 all around T and upper rad hose. 130 lower rad hose. 110-130 around rad. Upper drivers side rad 180. 240 at bottle, level in bottle raised to leak hose, cap letting pressure out. Pictures of readings I could get:
At this point the temps didnt scare me so I shut the engine off. Danger light on, engine off. 160 bottom hose of radiator, 110 bottom of plastic on radiator, 130 driver side rad, 180 pass side rad. Bottle 190-210, not leaking pressure out, water level returned to normal after a few minutes. Head bolts 210 pass side, 180 drivers side.
Non of these temps really bothered me other than the bottle when it was 240ish and letting pressure out. What did bother me is all my temps were in a pretty comfortable zone but my gauge inside was saying danger. I've already replaced the sensor in the rad and the one under the intake. These temps are a lot lower than the other day when I took it out and was picking up 220-230 all over. What do you guys think about this?
At idle after few minutes of driving, fan kicked on. 180 at hoses around T. 100 half way down rad both sides. 110 bottom hose of radiator. Tstat 110. Temp gauge then climbed to just under top line
Idle for another 3ish minutes, fan still on, needle in red now. 190-200 all around T and upper rad hose. 130 lower rad hose. 110-130 around rad. Upper drivers side rad 180. 240 at bottle, level in bottle raised to leak hose, cap letting pressure out. Pictures of readings I could get:
At this point the temps didnt scare me so I shut the engine off. Danger light on, engine off. 160 bottom hose of radiator, 110 bottom of plastic on radiator, 130 driver side rad, 180 pass side rad. Bottle 190-210, not leaking pressure out, water level returned to normal after a few minutes. Head bolts 210 pass side, 180 drivers side.
Non of these temps really bothered me other than the bottle when it was 240ish and letting pressure out. What did bother me is all my temps were in a pretty comfortable zone but my gauge inside was saying danger. I've already replaced the sensor in the rad and the one under the intake. These temps are a lot lower than the other day when I took it out and was picking up 220-230 all over. What do you guys think about this?
#38
#39
#40
I've seen it mean either, but to verify the sensor = use an OBD2 device to see if it shows a temp. If using an OBD2 device shows a temp within range but the gauge is crazy = gauge or issue with cluster or wiring going to the cluster. If the OBD2 device shows nothing = check coolant temp sensor or wiring.