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Running hot 4.0

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  #41  
Old 05-01-2020, 05:02 AM
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When doing these exercises it is best to try to shoot between the alternator and ac compressor - metal intake manifold outlet or the manifold itself, as well as the heater hoses/tubes. If any of those are over 200 you are too hot and it is a bad thermostat based on your radiator readings.

One of the best things about the inline thermostat mod is you can remove the thermostat completely and run the truck without losing any significant coolant. If it runs fine without a thermostat, you have your problem. If it does not, it is either radiator or hg. Never seen an engine run hot with a good radiator and no thermostat. It might boil the coolant from exhaust gases (bubbles galore in the tank) or throw a misfire code, but almost impossible for an engine circulating coolant through a good radiator to run hot.
 
  #42  
Old 05-01-2020, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
If the gauge inside reads cold & a red light usually something is going on with the gauge cluster itself. OBD2 temp reading would verify that.
Originally Posted by boston4
I thought cold + red light meant a fault with the temp sensor?
Originally Posted by Best4x4
I've seen it mean either, but to verify the sensor = use an OBD2 device to see if it shows a temp. If using an OBD2 device shows a temp within range but the gauge is crazy = gauge or issue with cluster or wiring going to the cluster. If the OBD2 device shows nothing = check coolant temp sensor or wiring.
I think something might have got lost in translation, but it was never reading cold and danger light, it steadily rose from cold to red then the danger light came on, all this happened within 5-7 minutes and the whole time I was taking temps.

Originally Posted by Extinct
When doing these exercises it is best to try to shoot between the alternator and ac compressor - metal intake manifold outlet or the manifold itself, as well as the heater hoses/tubes. If any of those are over 200 you are too hot and it is a bad thermostat based on your radiator readings.

One of the best things about the inline thermostat mod is you can remove the thermostat completely and run the truck without losing any significant coolant. If it runs fine without a thermostat, you have your problem. If it does not, it is either radiator or hg. Never seen an engine run hot with a good radiator and no thermostat. It might boil the coolant from exhaust gases (bubbles galore in the tank) or throw a misfire code, but almost impossible for an engine circulating coolant through a good radiator to run hot.
I did check there twice I think, once it was 212 and another time I got 220. I checked right on that sensor between the two. And every time I checked the heater hoses the lower one was like 230 in one spot but 190 where it connects to the big hose down low and were the rubber hose meets to go to the heater core. I figured that weird temp was cause coolant had just passed by the exhaust, the other heater hose was usually 190 to 200 if I remember right. I've thought about the inline tstat but haven't looked into it much. If it has a better success rate than the OEM design then I'm all for it cause I think this design sucks if I'm being honest. I just searched for a thread but couldn't find any good write ups. Anyone have a link to a good one?
 
  #43  
Old 05-01-2020, 07:58 AM
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PM Extinct
He is selling inline mod kits now
 
  #44  
Old 05-01-2020, 08:47 AM
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Ok so the needle moves = good. Have you ever got your hands on an OBD2 bluetooth or scantool to see what the sensor is actually reading? Air pockets love to hang around the temp sensor, but if you're seeing temps over say 210F with the IR temp gun something is certainly going on.
 
  #45  
Old 05-01-2020, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
Ok so the needle moves = good. Have you ever got your hands on an OBD2 bluetooth or scantool to see what the sensor is actually reading? Air pockets love to hang around the temp sensor, but if you're seeing temps over say 210F with the IR temp gun something is certainly going on.
I ordered a scangauge last week but wont be here till tuesday, theres a good chance it will be late too because of the delays going on right now with shipping. I was going to wait to do anything else with the rover until i get the gauge and can watch temps real time. I'm most likely going to be doing the head gaskets when i can get away from other house projects. I might have to resurrect this thread in a couple weeks once I get time to strip the motor down and put back together. Is there a superior gasket out there to others or are they all pretty much the same?
 
  #46  
Old 05-01-2020, 02:26 PM
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Victor Reinz kits are good.
 
  #47  
Old 05-01-2020, 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by tlrxj11
I ordered a scangauge last week but wont be here till tuesday, theres a good chance it will be late too because of the delays going on right now with shipping. I was going to wait to do anything else with the rover until i get the gauge and can watch temps real time. I'm most likely going to be doing the head gaskets when i can get away from other house projects. I might have to resurrect this thread in a couple weeks once I get time to strip the motor down and put back together. Is there a superior gasket out there to others or are they all pretty much the same?
You might try ordering an elm327 and using the torque app wiht an Android untill your scanguage arrives. Also the Autell gauge on Amazon does the same thing.
 
  #48  
Old 05-05-2020, 09:06 AM
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I got my scan gauge and hooked it up. I drove the rover around the block a few times and got it warm and brought it back home. Scan gauge was saying 220, rover gauge was right in the middle from about 160 to 220, my IR gauge reading in between the alternator and ac compressor read 160. We are doing the heads soon since we obviously have a problem somewhere. I'll let you guys know what happens after the heads.
 
  #49  
Old 05-05-2020, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by tlrxj11
I got my scan gauge and hooked it up. I drove the rover around the block a few times and got it warm and brought it back home. Scan gauge was saying 220, rover gauge was right in the middle from about 160 to 220, my IR gauge reading in between the alternator and ac compressor read 160. We are doing the heads soon since we obviously have a problem somewhere. I'll let you guys know what happens after the heads.
sounds like a 180 thermostat to me stock
get the 78 c stamped or the Atlantic British warm weather thermostat that should drop it to 195-204
 
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  #50  
Old 05-05-2020, 11:28 AM
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Temps sound normal for a stock thermostat.

 
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