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Old May 1, 2017 | 12:01 AM
  #11  
Jeff Blake's Avatar
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Anti freeze raises the boiling point, as does pressure. So thats a reason why you want to run 50/50 or close to it.

Boiling points
water: 212
50/50 coolant: 223
18 psi: 3 degrees per psi.. so +54

Totals:
100% water: 266 F
50/50: 277 F
 
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Old May 1, 2017 | 12:14 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Jeff Blake
Anti freeze raises the boiling point, as does pressure. So thats a reason why you want to run 50/50 or close to it.

Boiling points
water: 212
50/50 coolant: 223
18 psi: 3 degrees per psi.. so +54

Totals:
100% water: 266 F
50/50: 277 F
It raises the boiling point but you need to flow more volume to have the same thermo efficiency as water.

Water wetter or purple ice both raise the boiling point and the thermo efficiency.

In a system that requires glycol to avoid freezing, the best mix is the least glycol necessary to keep the coolant liquid. In most parts if the country this is usually less than 30% glycol mix.

In Parts of the country that never get below freezing, glycol is unnecessary and less efficient than the above mentioned additives for heat transfer.
 
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Old May 1, 2017 | 01:35 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Twix
My question is, why would you run anti freeze in a place that never freezes?
Two reasons.

- Corrosion. Trust me, I made that mistake with another vehicle years ago. Modern antifreezes include corrosion inhibitors that prolong the life of the radiator and other components.

- Boil over protection. Antifreeze not only lowers the freezing point, it also raises the boiling point of the water with which it is mixed.
 

Last edited by mln01; May 1, 2017 at 06:47 AM.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 09:17 AM
  #14  
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It actually does freeze here in winter, not often, but enough that you can't run straight water. I'll go ahead and add some water wetter and see if that helps, usually is good for a couple degrees.

I know I'm not overheating, just wanted to compare to others to make sure I don't have an impending issue. I'm just a little surprised that the ambient temp rising a few degrees could have a that large of an effect on engine temp. But the consensus seems to be it can. I will still look through everything later today and see if I find anything.
 
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Old May 1, 2017 | 09:20 AM
  #15  
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I understand the corrosion and lubrication parts, but glycol is horrible for transferring heat. There are better products than a 50/50 water glycol mix. You'll run cooler with just water, of course you'll need lubrication and rust inhibitor.
 
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Old May 1, 2017 | 10:06 AM
  #16  
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I say do a "RoadKill" no hood test lol.
 
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Old May 1, 2017 | 10:36 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Best4x4
I say do a "RoadKill" no hood test lol.
My favorite show lol... Seriously the stuff those guys pull off with the roadside repairs etc...
 
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Old May 1, 2017 | 11:02 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by CaptainAaron
My favorite show lol... Seriously the stuff those guys pull off with the roadside repairs etc...
They one guy does another show, engine masters maybe? Anyway, he did a test on an engine dyno where they got a baseline, and then started beating the **** out of the headers with a sledge hammer, incrementally of course, to see how it effected power.

They are wild lol
 
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Old May 1, 2017 | 11:15 AM
  #19  
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Yeah it's a great show. I have been wanting to do a set of hood louvers on a D2, but I might cruise around without a hood first lol.

It looks to me like the Poison Spyder JK Hood Louver plate would fit on our D2's pretty darn good. I have a hood black out on the Kalahari so it wouldn't really stick out.
 
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Old May 1, 2017 | 11:16 AM
  #20  
Jeff Blake's Avatar
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Side question, do you think a performance camshaft (Kent 180) could increase temps? Or a freshly rebuild engine for that matter (assuming everything done correctly)?
 
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