I have a couple ?'s, but I don't want to sound atupid. I don't have a owners manual yet and need to start my 75K service. I'm using his 60K service from this forum as a reference. I live in Redding Ca. nearly at sea level but right below MT. Shasta and Lassen. 115 degrees in summer and 30 in the winter. What weight engine oil do some of you run. I use Mobil 1. Also What weight do you run in axles.80/90w, but Iv'e read on here of others for quitness? Also Transfer case? I want to run full synthetic tranny fluid, yae,nae? Dexstron 3,4, or 5? I'm going to take it in to a domestic shop so they can completely flush the tranny and cooling system. I know you can drop the tranny pan and add tranny fluid but I want it flushed? If you guys dont run K@N's then what air filter do you recomend? I should probably weight because I need some guidence on flushing the power steering and brake system. DOT 3 good for brakes? I'll run full synthetic forpower sterring fluid.I do all my maintinace, but like you guys have said this is a high maintinace LR, so I want to do it right. Sea Foam??? I read the instructions on one of these posts, but where do you get it? I'll order Magnacor 8mm wires and run Bosh 4 or fusion plugs. BOY, everything for these has to be TOP of the LINE! Thanks

 

Regular factory air filter only.
10W/40 is a good safe number.
I prefer 85w/145 for the diffs and t/case for more protection.
If you want to switch to a full synthetic in the tranny, you will need to have it installed with a machine.

 

You need DOT 4 brake fluid.
You should consider getting the tanny filter kit too, unless you have service records stating it was replaced at the 30K service.

 

Being so hot where you are and off roading I would use Mobil 1 15w-50. Better protection in the heat. I use it year round and I live in MI.
85w-140 for t-case and diffs.
Always use the highest number you can get...Dexron 2 or 4? Get the 4.
Brake fluid, DOT 3or 5? Get the 5. The higher number is the latest and greatest. Just like a computer program, XXX2.0 is updated with XXX2.1, you get the idea.
Flush yoiur cooling system too. Youcan buy the SeaFoam at AutoZone, NAPA, Wal-Mart, almost anywhere.
Standard $20 paper air filter from anywhere. Just stay away from K&N and the K&N look alikes.
You will need a hand pump to refill the t-case, and you will want to replace the fill plugs on the diffs with the brass ones.
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/FTC5208G.cfm
Also check and make sure that your axle breathers are not clogged.

 

On brake fluid type 5 is not the same as 3 & 4 and will not work. IT is
for special type of braking system and with a silicone base it will not
work in your Rover.

 

See, arent you glad you asked, I learned something.

 

10w/40 and 15w/50? I've only used 5 or 10w/30 in my vehicals and my wifes 04 Expedition uses 5w/20, what does the factory call for Land Rovers? I can ask theParts store for all the factory stuff since I dont have a manual. Thanks guys. Ive got some other ?'s in a liitle bit.

 

Agreed, stay away from DOT 5 and use DOT 4 only with no exception unless you want to cause some brake failure issues.

 

You can use whatever motor oil you want. Manufatures recommend a viscosity that they think will suite 80% of their customers needs. They have no idea where their car is going to end up in its life.
My owners manual even recommends 20w-50.
Ford uses 5w-20 because of CAFE credits. And that 5w-20 is a synthetic blend.

 

According to the owner's manual for my 97 5x30 or 40 can be used for all temperature ranges. My Dodge uses 5w20 oil because of multiple displacement system on the engine. Any other weight and it doesn't work properly. In addition to an owner's manual also get yourself a repair manual of some form. I have a Haynes manual that I carry in the truck but it seems that the Rave CD manuals are popular. Check ebay for the repair manuals.

Spike- Living in MI, do you have your Rover set up with engine heaters so you can plug it in when the temperature drops?