SAI Pump test - where is the relay?
#1
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I am trying to find out if my SAI pump is dead or not.
It used to make a little noise when it came on and progressively got louder and louder. now since it has stopped running all together I have a P1412 and want to see if something is stopping the pump from coming on or if the pump is burned out.
This came up in a thread:
"With a warm engine which is switched off and the SAI pump relay removed, the SAI pump can be supplied with power
by bridging terminals 87 and 30 at the relay socket."
Can anyone tell me where the relay is so I can by-pass it and test the SAI pump?
Thank you. - Paul
It used to make a little noise when it came on and progressively got louder and louder. now since it has stopped running all together I have a P1412 and want to see if something is stopping the pump from coming on or if the pump is burned out.
This came up in a thread:
"With a warm engine which is switched off and the SAI pump relay removed, the SAI pump can be supplied with power
by bridging terminals 87 and 30 at the relay socket."
Can anyone tell me where the relay is so I can by-pass it and test the SAI pump?
Thank you. - Paul
#2
#3
#4
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
P1412 is not an sai pump fault it is a bank 1 (d/s) sai fault
check your vacuum hoses and repair. check the operation of the sai valve
you either have a vacuum supply leak, restriction, or faulty solenoid.
The pump relay is in the upper r/s corner area of the engine fuse box.
the lid will show an engine symbol in the area. jump terms 30/87 of the realy ( -- I )
check your vacuum hoses and repair. check the operation of the sai valve
you either have a vacuum supply leak, restriction, or faulty solenoid.
The pump relay is in the upper r/s corner area of the engine fuse box.
the lid will show an engine symbol in the area. jump terms 30/87 of the realy ( -- I )
#5
#6
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I typed a long reply on what to do and one of those stupid forum popups wiped out
my reply.
In a nutshell the sai pump only runs under certain conditions the perameters include
ambient temp, and engine temp there is a good chance it is not running becuase it
has not reached these conditions. Test the pump anyway.
have you had the upper plenm off recently? I've seen the hard hose get pinched
between the upper plenum and d/s fuel rail. this will cut the vacuum supply off to the
Sai can and flag a fault. the sai cans can also get stuck open/closed (mechanically)
When you apply vacuum to them they should open and you'll hear a low tone gurgling
type of sound when you remove vacuum the noise should stop. check all your sai vacuum
hoses and the pump supply hoses. You should find something not right.
my reply.
In a nutshell the sai pump only runs under certain conditions the perameters include
ambient temp, and engine temp there is a good chance it is not running becuase it
has not reached these conditions. Test the pump anyway.
have you had the upper plenm off recently? I've seen the hard hose get pinched
between the upper plenum and d/s fuel rail. this will cut the vacuum supply off to the
Sai can and flag a fault. the sai cans can also get stuck open/closed (mechanically)
When you apply vacuum to them they should open and you'll hear a low tone gurgling
type of sound when you remove vacuum the noise should stop. check all your sai vacuum
hoses and the pump supply hoses. You should find something not right.
#8
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I completed the circuit and the pump ran for a short 2 seconds, made a brutal dry bearing whine and stopped working. Pretty sure it is toast.
The relay works perfect so I'll start the process of tracking down a new SAI Pump.
Sorry to have carried this over two different threads and I appreciate all of your help.
The relay works perfect so I'll start the process of tracking down a new SAI Pump.
Sorry to have carried this over two different threads and I appreciate all of your help.
#9
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
i know this is an old post but i am also old and 2012 seems like yesterday to me.
so the air injection on an 03 range rover l322.
i pulled the relay and bridged the socket, blower worked.
i energized the relay and it clicked and made a connection.
i removed the big hose from the check valve and started the engine, the blower pushed a lot of air up the hose and a gurgling sound was heard from the check valve port.
i disconnected the vacuum line from the check valve and the gurgling stopped..
i reconnected the vacuum line and the big hose then it shut off the pump and the valve.
so do i have a working secondary air injection system?
because my scanner says commanded off and i can't set the readiness check to complete.
so the air injection on an 03 range rover l322.
i pulled the relay and bridged the socket, blower worked.
i energized the relay and it clicked and made a connection.
i removed the big hose from the check valve and started the engine, the blower pushed a lot of air up the hose and a gurgling sound was heard from the check valve port.
i disconnected the vacuum line from the check valve and the gurgling stopped..
i reconnected the vacuum line and the big hose then it shut off the pump and the valve.
so do i have a working secondary air injection system?
because my scanner says commanded off and i can't set the readiness check to complete.
#10
![Default](https://landroverforums.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
is there anybody out there, help i'm drowning in emission nightmares.
as i see it ;-
the overiding factor her is the allotted time given to read the signal from the 02 sensor on cold startup.
within this time frame the air pump must inject sufficient air into the exhaust to register a change in the 02 levels as measured by the 02 sensors and the sensor have to react to this change in this time frame.
so if the pump is under par due to a restriction "in" or "out" insufficient air will be injected within the time frame.
if there is a leak in the plumbing/pipework there will also be insufficient air injected.
the 02 sensors on the other hand must run up to temperature quick enough to give a correct reading in the time frame and react to 02 changes instantly before the clock runs out and the air pump stops.
now my air pump pushes out a ton of air, the check valve operates correctly and i don't have any leaks.
so my attention is draw to the 02 sensors which are new denso units (all 4)
my scanner shows the low limit to the voltage as too low at cold startup being .000 volt instead of .005 volt, this must be the heater circuit, however this is corrected when the engine is run and restarted.
my scanner also shows the reaction time for the sensors is a fail.
could this be due to the brand of sensor used?
or is there a problem with the heater circuit?
prior to changing the sensors my scanner showed that the sensors were old and slow so i changed them
as i see it ;-
the overiding factor her is the allotted time given to read the signal from the 02 sensor on cold startup.
within this time frame the air pump must inject sufficient air into the exhaust to register a change in the 02 levels as measured by the 02 sensors and the sensor have to react to this change in this time frame.
so if the pump is under par due to a restriction "in" or "out" insufficient air will be injected within the time frame.
if there is a leak in the plumbing/pipework there will also be insufficient air injected.
the 02 sensors on the other hand must run up to temperature quick enough to give a correct reading in the time frame and react to 02 changes instantly before the clock runs out and the air pump stops.
now my air pump pushes out a ton of air, the check valve operates correctly and i don't have any leaks.
so my attention is draw to the 02 sensors which are new denso units (all 4)
my scanner shows the low limit to the voltage as too low at cold startup being .000 volt instead of .005 volt, this must be the heater circuit, however this is corrected when the engine is run and restarted.
my scanner also shows the reaction time for the sensors is a fail.
could this be due to the brand of sensor used?
or is there a problem with the heater circuit?
prior to changing the sensors my scanner showed that the sensors were old and slow so i changed them