SAI tubing alternative/mod
#1
SAI tubing alternative/mod
Big thanks to @Extinct for the help on this project!
Here are some measurements and pictures of the SAI tube mod which makes it easy to remove and reinstall now...
51” (130cm) total length x 3/4” (19mm) ID hose then cut to...
12” (31cm) from SAI pump connector to T fitting
7” (18cm) T fitting to RH valve
32” (81cm) T fitting to LH valve
6x 1” (25mm) clamps
1x 3/4“ (19mm) T fitting
This is the oil catch can kit I bought from a UK eBay seller... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223064881865
I've been running this for a week now at 60 degree ambient temps and it has been working very well.
I would caution though... with the extreme engine heat under the hood, it is making the flimsy hoses I purchased very hot and spongy/pliable. I might later switch to a thicker walled 3/4” (19mm) ID red HPS silicone radiator hose.
I was concerned there wouldn’t be enough SAI pump air pressure to get to the LH SAI control valve since I didn’t "T" it off directly in-between the two SAI control valves. Surprisingly there was plenty of air pressure going to both control valves. You can turn on the SAI pump briefly and test for air leaks by removing relay R6 in the engine bay and jumping the contacts with an insulated wire.
I hope this helps...
Here are some measurements and pictures of the SAI tube mod which makes it easy to remove and reinstall now...
51” (130cm) total length x 3/4” (19mm) ID hose then cut to...
12” (31cm) from SAI pump connector to T fitting
7” (18cm) T fitting to RH valve
32” (81cm) T fitting to LH valve
6x 1” (25mm) clamps
1x 3/4“ (19mm) T fitting
This is the oil catch can kit I bought from a UK eBay seller... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223064881865
I've been running this for a week now at 60 degree ambient temps and it has been working very well.
I would caution though... with the extreme engine heat under the hood, it is making the flimsy hoses I purchased very hot and spongy/pliable. I might later switch to a thicker walled 3/4” (19mm) ID red HPS silicone radiator hose.
I was concerned there wouldn’t be enough SAI pump air pressure to get to the LH SAI control valve since I didn’t "T" it off directly in-between the two SAI control valves. Surprisingly there was plenty of air pressure going to both control valves. You can turn on the SAI pump briefly and test for air leaks by removing relay R6 in the engine bay and jumping the contacts with an insulated wire.
I hope this helps...
Last edited by JUKE179r; 01-15-2021 at 01:07 AM.
The following 4 users liked this post by JUKE179r:
#2
Nice mod...
Biggest advantage I see is not having to line up those 2 holes in the bracket that line up with the coil pack. This would make it much easier when putting the upper manifold back on.
I'm wondering if you did this mod would relocating the coils be obsolete? May be able to change the spark plug wires with no issues without having those metal pipes and their bracket in the way.
Biggest advantage I see is not having to line up those 2 holes in the bracket that line up with the coil pack. This would make it much easier when putting the upper manifold back on.
I'm wondering if you did this mod would relocating the coils be obsolete? May be able to change the spark plug wires with no issues without having those metal pipes and their bracket in the way.
The following users liked this post:
JUKE179r (08-29-2020)
The following users liked this post:
JUKE179r (07-15-2022)
#4
Nice mod...
Biggest advantage I see is not having to line up those 2 holes in the bracket that line up with the coil pack. This would make it much easier when putting the upper manifold back on.
I'm wondering if you did this mod would relocating the coils be obsolete? May be able to change the spark plug wires with no issues without having those metal pipes and their bracket in the way.
Biggest advantage I see is not having to line up those 2 holes in the bracket that line up with the coil pack. This would make it much easier when putting the upper manifold back on.
I'm wondering if you did this mod would relocating the coils be obsolete? May be able to change the spark plug wires with no issues without having those metal pipes and their bracket in the way.
#5
The following users liked this post:
JUKE179r (08-29-2020)
#7
Thanks Guys!
UPDATE... I've been driving around now for over a week with the SAI rubber tubing. The SAI pump turns on and off as usual on initial engine start but now I'm noticing the SAI pump comes on after I stop at red lights for more than a minute. As soon as I hit the gas, the pump stops. I'm guessing it only happens while in "Drive" and the brake is applied. When I sit at idle in "Park" the SAI pump doesn't turn on except for during initial engine start. I've never noticed that happening before so I don't know if it started when I swapped to the rubber tubing or not.
I keep checking the Nanocom and I have zero fault codes for anything.... knock on wood.
UPDATE... I've been driving around now for over a week with the SAI rubber tubing. The SAI pump turns on and off as usual on initial engine start but now I'm noticing the SAI pump comes on after I stop at red lights for more than a minute. As soon as I hit the gas, the pump stops. I'm guessing it only happens while in "Drive" and the brake is applied. When I sit at idle in "Park" the SAI pump doesn't turn on except for during initial engine start. I've never noticed that happening before so I don't know if it started when I swapped to the rubber tubing or not.
I keep checking the Nanocom and I have zero fault codes for anything.... knock on wood.
Last edited by JUKE179r; 08-31-2020 at 03:58 AM.
#8
Thanks Guys!
UPDATE... I've been driving around now for over a week with the SAI rubber tubing. The SAI pump turns on and off as usual on initial engine start but now I'm noticing the SAI pump comes on after I stop at red lights for more than a minute. As soon as I hit the gas, the pump stops. I'm guessing it only happens while in "Drive" and the brake is applied. When I sit at idle in "Park" the SAI pump doesn't turn on except for during initial engine start. I've never noticed that happening before so I don't know if it started when I swapped to the rubber tubing or not.
I keep checking the Nanocom and I have zero fault codes for anything.... knock on wood.
UPDATE... I've been driving around now for over a week with the SAI rubber tubing. The SAI pump turns on and off as usual on initial engine start but now I'm noticing the SAI pump comes on after I stop at red lights for more than a minute. As soon as I hit the gas, the pump stops. I'm guessing it only happens while in "Drive" and the brake is applied. When I sit at idle in "Park" the SAI pump doesn't turn on except for during initial engine start. I've never noticed that happening before so I don't know if it started when I swapped to the rubber tubing or not.
I keep checking the Nanocom and I have zero fault codes for anything.... knock on wood.
i have this happen on my '04. there doesn't really seem to be any rhyme or reason to it and no codes, so i've never worried too much about it.
#10
Big thanks to @Extinct for the help on this project!
Here are some measurements and pictures of the SAI tube mod which makes it easy to remove and reinstall now...
51” (130cm) total length x 3/4” (19mm) ID hose then cut to...
12” (31cm) from SAI pump connector to T fitting
7” (18cm) T fitting to RH valve
32” (81cm) T fitting to LH valve
6x 1” (25mm) clamps
1x 3/4“ (19mm) T fitting
This is the oil catch can kit I bought from a UK eBay seller... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223064881865
I've been running this for a week now at 60 degree ambient temps and it has been working very well.
I would caution though... with the extreme engine heat under the hood, it is making the flimsy hoses I purchased very hot and spongy/pliable. I might later switch to a thicker walled 3/4” (19mm) ID red HPS silicone radiator hose.
I was concerned there wouldn’t be enough SAI pump air pressure to get to the LH SAI control valve since I didn’t "T" it off directly in-between the two SAI control valves. Surprisingly there was plenty of air pressure going to both control valves. You can turn on the SAI pump briefly and test for air leaks by removing relay R6 in the engine bay and jumping the contacts with an insulated wire.
I hope this helps...
Here are some measurements and pictures of the SAI tube mod which makes it easy to remove and reinstall now...
51” (130cm) total length x 3/4” (19mm) ID hose then cut to...
12” (31cm) from SAI pump connector to T fitting
7” (18cm) T fitting to RH valve
32” (81cm) T fitting to LH valve
6x 1” (25mm) clamps
1x 3/4“ (19mm) T fitting
This is the oil catch can kit I bought from a UK eBay seller... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223064881865
I've been running this for a week now at 60 degree ambient temps and it has been working very well.
I would caution though... with the extreme engine heat under the hood, it is making the flimsy hoses I purchased very hot and spongy/pliable. I might later switch to a thicker walled 3/4” (19mm) ID red HPS silicone radiator hose.
I was concerned there wouldn’t be enough SAI pump air pressure to get to the LH SAI control valve since I didn’t "T" it off directly in-between the two SAI control valves. Surprisingly there was plenty of air pressure going to both control valves. You can turn on the SAI pump briefly and test for air leaks by removing relay R6 in the engine bay and jumping the contacts with an insulated wire.
I hope this helps...
How Did you get the connector off of the old hose? I lost a thread that explained it a while back... mine has completely crumbled away/. the plastic hose to the pump but connector on pump looks good...