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Same trans issue different trans

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  #11  
Old 12-26-2020, 04:00 PM
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@RBS I do not think so, most of them are related to the ECU and lights. My Hi low switch went out it just meant the ECU did not know I was in low, performance was worse but I still moved.

I have put my transfer case into neutral between Hi/LO and the Disco does not move but I do get a warning light on the dash.
 
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Old 12-26-2020, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by RBS
No sir, neither does the diff lock. The t case is from an 04 as is the the cabling. It didn’t move under its own power when I got it and I have tried 3 trans and 2 T/Cases and still won’t move. It has to be something electrical that I can’t see or don’t know about.
So, are you saying the hi-lo shifter is not moving forward, center and back smoothly and you don't feel shifter firmly go into hi or lo? And it does not go sideways, towards drivers compartment, to lock center diff? The transfer case has to be either in low or high to get movement at output yoke...and in CDL to get both front and rear yokes to turn on transfer case. Sometimes you have to roll/move the rover slightly to get the hi-lo lever to move.

 
  #13  
Old 12-27-2020, 10:46 AM
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The hi/lo shifter is moving, maybe not freely but positively. I just removed the bottom hardline from the bottom of the trans and I’m getting no fluid. But when I removed the fill plug it comes pouring out like it’s over filled, the only part of this system I haven’t changed out Is the cooler could it be clogged or a hose which keeps the torque converter from filling up?
 
  #14  
Old 12-27-2020, 12:52 PM
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@RBS you need to have the engine running to add fluid too or check the transmission level. You will need to top up now.
 
  #15  
Old 12-27-2020, 12:55 PM
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Richard. The vehicle was running and warm. No fluid out the bottom where the hardline attaches to the bottom of the transmission. Is the bottom hose the sending or the receiving? No fluid movement no vehicle movement correct?
 
  #16  
Old 12-27-2020, 01:20 PM
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@RBS That does not sound good, I am not great on automatics but that does sound like a fluid circulation issue. Which would be the torque converter I believe, and you are correct no fluid pressure no movement.

Given you have tried 3 transmissions something up, the same shop do all 3 installs ?
 
  #17  
Old 12-27-2020, 01:23 PM
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Richard, I did all 3 installs and I have done a few previously but never 04 TC and trans into 00. It’s the pump I’m sure I just really don’t want to take it back out but I have to I imagine. I’m going to bypass the cooler as a last try first.
 
  #18  
Old 12-27-2020, 01:27 PM
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@RBS Hmm interesting, I would think if you drained the transmission then disconnected the cooler lines you could use a hand pump to run fluid through those lines
 
  #19  
Old 12-27-2020, 01:33 PM
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@RBS this is from the Ashcroft page
Check List for fitting ZF Autobox

Please note that a good 50% of our 'warranty returns' are due to two basis installation errors.

1)debris and contamination in the oil cooler and oil cooler lines, even if you have flushed them out this is no guarantee they are clean, if the old box has suffered a bad failure you would be wise to replace these.

2)broken oil pump, by not fitting the torque converter correctly, read below.

Assembly

Check engine to bellhousing and Autobox to transfer case dowels are all fitted.

It is very important that you locate and install your torque converter correctly. One of the most common causes of failure is the torque converter not being located correctly onto the pump before fitting causing the pump to be broken on start up.

To avoid this we would suggest that you stand the autobox upright and lower the torque converter into the bellhousing.

When the torque converter has fully located onto the pump it is essential to then measure the distance from the bellhousing front face to the torque converter feet ( also known as the flange that the flexplate is bolted to).

Once the torque converter is inserted and checked make sure it does not fall forward when offering the autobox up to the engine. Do not be tempted to pull the gearbox into position with the bellhousing bolts, it should fully locate on the engine with no gap between the bellhousing and engine block.

With the autobox fitted to the engine, check that the converter will rotate freely and has a small amount (about 2mm) of end float. Bolt the converter to the flex plate using loctite or similar on the thread of the bolts.

Ensure the breather vents well away from the exhaust.
 
  #20  
Old 12-28-2020, 02:20 AM
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Passengers side of cooler is inlet, just follow tube back to trans...will be the tube that crosses over in front of oil pan.



Something seems seriously wrong with this whole scenario, l mean you've put in three transmissions and no go?

Don't mean to sound like a jerk...but...

1) Are the torque converter bolts in?
2) Did the torque converter spin freely when bell housing was bolted up, no binding and you were able to spin torque converter easily to align bolt holes?
3) Is trans full of fluid, roughly 5.5/6 quarts on refill.
4) Do you have any green M or S flashing on dash or check engine light illuminating? (Which, even with these...you should still have "limp-mode" = vehicle starts out in third gear and you'd have reverse)
5) Did you do a filter change and possibly pinch/forget o-ring(s).




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