Take the hose referenced in the pic a few posts above, disconnect it from the valve cover, leaving it connected to the plenum. Open a can of seafoam,dip the open end of the hose into the can, and clamp the hose with anything that will restrict flow(I used needle nose vice-grips). Start or have someone start the engine.

You will be able to tell if it's flowing to much seafoam, the engine will act as if it wants to stall. Kinda gauge the flow so it takes a few to 5 min's to empty the can. Then shut 'er down and let sit for 1/2 hour. Reconnect the hose, or take the 1/2 hr to clean out the oil seperator under the hose you just detached from the valve cover. Once the 1/2 hr is gone and everything is all connected, start it(will hesitate to start at first) and then take off like you're drag racing(lots of smoke again)


BTW, don't do it in a garage, when adding the seafoam, it will smoke like crazy!

 

It's like letting dishes soak with dish soap before you wash them.

 

I will just touch on the topic of adding seafoam to the oil. I wouldn't do it. If you are wanting to clean things out, either do an ATF flush and drop the pan, or switch to a higher detergent synthetic and let time work its magic. Cleaning additives are made to break things down and will mess with the oxidation index of most oils. Just run oil that has the additives that were made for it.

 

I'm not sure what ATF will do either as ATF has less detergents in it than regular oil. It looks like it does something but it will not touch sludge or varnish.

 

OK, good explanations but I have another question? What are the symptoms that indicate you need to do the induction cleaning?

Mine is running pretty good as is, just a slight tap/knock for two or three cycles at start-up, then the noise goes away. Runs strong, accelerates good. No strain even with A/C on.

It's a 97 with less than 120K on it. I recently ran a can of flush thru before the last oil/filter change with 5/30 Castrol GT. I am going to do the next change with the Castrol Extended Milage (green bottle) 10/40 and new filter.

I have run a couple of cans of the Lucas Gas Treatment thru it in the last few months and have only used 93 Octane name brands (usually Shell or Exxon or Sunoco).

I still need to pick up new plugs and wires only because I don't know how long it's been since they were replaced.

 

There are no "signs" that you need a induction cleaning.

I would not do a ATF engine flush, ATF is not a lubricating oil.

 

OK, I was reading the Seafoam can today, it says to use 1/3 of a can for the induction cleaning. I just hesitate on the use of most of the "majic in a can" type products.

 

Use the whole can....JUST ADD IT SLOWLY, 5 minutes minimum for the whole can. Give it a shot, for $8 you don't have much to lose, unless you do it wrong, then you might lose your engine

 

I agree with okdiscoguy on the seafoam. I just took my heads off and couldn't believe how much the intake and tops of the valves were gunked up. I couldn't imagine what kind of problems I would have had if I had dumped a can or two of seafoam down the intake. Most of us are no the original owners of these trucks and unless you have documentation of every oil and fluid change there is no way to know how much gunk is really in there. This seafoam stuff seems like it kills O2 sensors and causes all kinds of code to appear. I had never even heard of this stuff before I joined this forum and from what I have read I would keep it far away from my truck.

 

Seafoam and induction cleaning are not new, actually they are both quite old. If you have not heard of seafoam I am guessing you have not been into DIY engine maintenance because in engine repair (small and large) seafoam is well known and is available in any auto parts store and walmart I've ever been in. Most dealerships and indy mechanics offer an induction type cleaning service and they are quite popular. All major automakers have their own personal brew and injection method and some just use water. If done correctly an induction cleaning is as safe and does not kill anything but you need to change the oil afterwards. The secret is to go slow, yes you are flushing carbon deposits past the valves and through the cylinder down the exhaust. Some people say to take at least 5 minute but you should be taking at least 20 minutes to do a can of seafoam. I'm sure if you let you engine suck down an entire can in 60 seconds you could run into problems. Also if your engine is that carbed up that an induction cleaning will cause an issue you would have had to open it up sooner rather than later anyhow.