Mike,
I had no idea that Seafoam had such a good history or pedigree.
I like that.

I just assumed that it was a recent product.
And, I assumed wrong.

I stand corrected and I am OK with that.
I appreciate the advice.

Living in California makes you skeptical.
I need to get out of here (again).

 

I did this today, and cleaned my MAF. Honestly I cannot tell whether it made a huge difference in my engine function but the plume of smoke was definitely worth the price of admission. Smoked my entire neighborhood. People walking literally stood with mouths hanging open as I drove by. When I returned from a 10 mile drive the smoke still hung in the neighborhood. Hahaha. James Bond should have had Seafoam and a valve to thwart followers. Awesome!

 

I did read elsewhere that some put seafoam directly in the crankcase and change the oil after 200 miles. Is this advised?

 

As a postscript to anyone who may read this thread, there is a caution. My engine was marginal--a swap from a wrecked discovery. Never had any problems with it (in over a year of driving... probably 10,000 miles) except for a slight ticking, until the morning after I did the Sea Foam treatment. I realize this may sound like a crap, but it the morning after I used the seafoam in my intake (with no driving in between), I had loud ticking and a head gasket leak. It is rare that I can pinpoint a specific event leading up to a problem problem... I surmise that my engine was pretty gunked up and maybe it was partially sealed with gunk. Seafoam may have worked too well. Or it could have been something else.... but I don't know what.

Best,

Charlie V

 

I retract my previous. I did have a head gasket leak and fixed that. Then I did another sea foam treatment. I was getting misfires immediately after the treatment and began cursor sea foam again. Turns our the vacuum hose on the throttle body wasn't connecting properly. When I sealed it with silicon all engine problems disappeared.

 

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Can't believe that someone would seal vacuum lines with silicon, but I can't believe that anyone would try to seal anything automotive with silicon. After doing repeated trial and error tests, trying to seal various gaskets with silicon, I gave up, finding NAPA permatex brand aviation cement to seal much better, much easier, for long lasting seal, like forever. You will never catch me dead with silicon on any of my gaskets, thank you, but using silicon on vacuum lines is pure foolishness. You might try sealing the vacuum lines the way they were intended to be sealed, and would find it way better than using that damn silicon!

 

That was just to see of the problem of the cylinder misfires was related to the vacuum issue. A temporary fix. Thanks for the suggestion, though. I'm not a foolish person, generally.

But rather than make a permanent seal I am hoping to find something better than the little plastic fitting.

 

On a similar theme I have read reports and forums and understand this process is quite good and can return advantages in cleaning up the engine internals.

TerraClean

 

Terra that's true. I was at the parts place yesterday and was told to use b12 Chem tool instead. It was a welcome recommendation since it is just over 3 dollars a can.

I think in my case I had a severely gunked engine. When I did the HG after the seafoam I found crap everywhere inside the valve cover and head gasket. My engine had a very difficult previous life. In particular, the oil passages in the heads were mostly blocked with gunk. I think the seafoam is a good idea if your engine is normal, but a really gunked up one? You take a chance of moving all of the gunk to one place and making bigger problems. I'm referring to the induction method and not the gas tank method.

 

I'm getting ready to do seafoam treatment to my rig but there is no mention on how much of a tank of gas to add the whole 16oz can to. Can anyone with experience doing this reply as to how much fuel in the tank is idea.

Thanks.