Doing the coolant every 2 years would be prudent, though checking it regularly for acidity would be a good check for sure. Apparently the transmission filter screen only needs to be changed once. The U-Joints, if you drive in water and mud you'll want to up that service schedule, same for diff fluid, the more water and mud the more frequent those need to be changed to prevent sludge buildup from contamination.

Everything else I'd agree with.

 

ajh- I think we will have to agree to disagree on this one. The 03's were new engines. I need to read up on the trek before I can speak, but we all know what happened to DuraLube, right? They said they could drive without oil and not hurt the engine. They tried this in a lab, and the car wouldn't do one mile. They are gone.

I run and sell Royal Purple. It isn't the oil at all. It is the filter. I have said before, it will not filter down fine enough, and you will eventually have an engine so full of micron sized debris, it will start eroding your bearings. I have run the analysis 2 times on my Rover with 90K on the ticker. Mobile 1 is a good oil (not as good as RP), but it can't filter its'self. PS, if you are worried about heat, switch to RP. Mobile 1 lasted 10 minutes on an oxidation test. They stopped the test after 3 days with RP. It didn't fail, they just stopped it..

My recommendation.....not over 5K intervals.

 

I would absolutely recommend changing filters more frequently. The oil itself will last longer than the filter.

 

Here is a filter worth looking into if you want to really filter down your oil and still maintain full oil flow.
http://www.rpmoil.com/?r=g1&gclid=CP...FQYjWAod3n51Rg
Let me know what you think.

 

Looks very cool. Now some way to mount it up out of harms way and so that you can change it without losing oil through the feed tube... (now I know these exist, but haven't looked much yet.)

 

If you are catching rocks up that high, you are in trouble.

 

Well, yeah. It's more to change the filter without losing all the oil.

 

Hi okdiscoguy,

You've piqued my curiosity. Can you decribe in more detail the testing you did? Was it traditional spectrographic oil analysis or did you also measure specific wear rates within the engine somehow?

Cheers,
Dave

 

Spike,

Interestingly I've never cleaned a fuel injector while still installed in the head and have been lucky enough to not have needed to. I remember reading some research a few years ago (I'll see if I can dig it up) that basically said there was only one injector cleaner on the market at that time that showed any ability in lab tests to do what it advertized. It was the Chevron with Techron product. All others were essentially shown to be placebos. That may have changed in the last few years but there is nothing in Seafoam that suggests any advanced chemical engineering was done to solve a specific problem. The ingredients are all simple solvents or carrier oil.

The right way to clean an injector is to pull it out and use an ultrasonic cleaner. They will come out pin clean.

Cheers,
Dave

 

You can check out the process at http://www.oil-lab.com/intro.html.

I changed the filter at 3K. I had already done 2 3K oil changes, because you should never extend the first set of drains on an engine that has not run synthetics its full life. Most synthetics havehigher detergent properties and will clean out your engine in the first change. I figured mine would be really dirty due to the abuse, and did an ATF flush before anything.

I took a sample at 3K before I drained it, and at 3500 after changing the filter and adding. I also took a sample at 6K, showing wear metals, and at 6500 showing less, but still present wear metals. I ran a WIX filter, which I consider good. Probably not as good as a K&N, but miles above a FRAM or something similar. Most people don't buy the top quality filters, just whatever is on the shelf...

I was told that the compound found in the oil was from the main bearings.....too fine for a normal filter to get. There was a pretty good amount of fuel dilution and a high carbon content.

I have since changed to the K&N and run 5K drains. The samples are fine. I understand that mobile 1 is not cheap. RP is higher than M1 is. I just don't want to risk excessive wear in my engine at all. I also would not post for anyone to go above 5K because I don't want someone reading the post and thinking they can get a Fram and some Penzoil and run as long as they want to. If you want to run longer, I don't care, I am just saying I am not going past 5K, and why I am not. I have run the tests and I am not just going off of the price of oil or what I think it can do.

As I have said before, I have a friend that went 250K+ on one change with RP. That doesn't mean I am going to tell people to do it. I understand that there are a lot of car makers out there recommending extended drains. That is for new cars with nenwly designed engines, not one's with old buick V-8's.