Selling 2003 Landrover Discovery....
 

I am so sad to be posting this but my disco is on it's last leg. Shop says the brake booster is corroded and it's dripping power steering fluid and it's unsafe to drive. Not worth the money to fix. Any thoughts from this forum? Anyone want to suggest where to sell or donate?

Thanks going to miss this forum and my car ;-(

Easy fixes

pretty sure i have a spare brake master cylinder (used, but should be fully operational and not leaky) sitting on my workbench. it's yours if you want it. switching them over and then bleeding the brakes is pretty straightforward if you're at all mechanically inclined.
do you know where specifically the steering fluid is leaking from?

Wait a minute....

what's the rear frame look like?

what's the underside look like?

does it run well?

there has to be another reason why they stated it's not worth fixing.

other than the fact that they will charge you 1/4 what the truck us worth, or they dont know how to do it, I would hit a upullit and put a used brake booster in it or use the one that was offered. If you have a way to store it, I'll have some time in March, I could help you swap it. Couple hundred bucks.

the power steering pump is a known weak leaking point. The back needs to be taken off, cleaned, reassembled with some quality sealant. I dont remember what the torque amount is, it's very low like 8 pounds on those bolts, I usually tighten them until I get a little drag off the pulley. Then I back them off just a hair. It's been great for me.

You all are terrific.

2- problems. ! my power steering fluid is leaking like crazy. Doesn't stay full for more than a day or two parked. Need to have it washed to find out where leak is. That is probably an easy fix

Bigger problem, shop (Pep Boys not Landrover) who have been so kind to me, showed me the corroded Brake Booster (the master cyclinder). He said it's not safe, could go and then I would have NO brakes. Need to get the original part, no joke with that. I will take a picture and upload.

Also my front tires need replacing and there are so many other little problems. I did (somehow) pass inspection in November so its good for a year. If you think worth fixing 149,000 let me know.

Thanks everyone!!!

while we dont know all your problems...a master cylinder job is somewhat easy. The power steering seems like its leaking fast enough that you could clean the area and pinpoint the leak.

tires are a normal repetitious thing...if you want, upload a pic of your master cylinder.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...a578293ca0.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...9475dc3aec.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...3742e7636e.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...e8ad9b4549.jpg

Pictures are of brake booster problem. Corroded.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...dab34af06a.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...4a342a0040.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...864a259d5c.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...d1d57a964a.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...2626f22682.jpg

Other problem, power steering fluid leaking like crazy. The easier of the two I am told to fix.

THANKS in ADVANCE!!!

that brake master is definitely ugly. the one i have would be a huge improvement but there's a catch -- the one on my workbench is split but my parts truck has a good one. i'll have to pull it but i think that's a pretty simple job.

clean around the base of the steering fluid reservoir and all around the pump and steering box. with that much coming out it should be easy to identify the source of the leak.

So you have a 2003 booster? How much with installation? You're not too far.

the booster is the same as far as i know. my parts truck is a '99 but i may have an '03 one lying around as well. you can have one for free once i take it off

pulled the '03 booster. there's a little bit of corrosion on the lower part. i know that it works but i will pull the '99 as well to see if that one is better. it only takes 10 minutes or so.

Are you confusing the master cylinder with the booster behind it?

to me, I'd change the master cylinder, which did pep boys say was bad? The booster or the master cylinder?

Guys, he takes it to Pepboys. He doesn't do his own work. If he's not prepared to fix these common, 16-year-old Land Rover issues himself, or has deep enough pockets to pay someone, he's right in wanting to bail.

To disco2003NYC; Most here want to help you keep it going b/c we're enthusiasts who think that these trucks are worth more than actual value, mostly b/c no one makes anything like them anymore, and many do their own work for enjoyment, challenge and of course to save $$. The guys at Pepboys don't get it. They just see an old truck. And, btw, you're asking for trouble if you keep going there with a Rover. Find a reputable independent specialist. It'll save you time, money, and aggravation in the long run. -If you decide to stay in the fold..

Yep, agree, 16 year old vehicles are not for the faint of heart. You either have to have some mechanic skills or deep pockets.

And yes, most folks here are "we can help you can save it" types. But, if the person on the other end of the line isn't up for the challenge...we're all just wasting our breath.

​​​​​​​ Brian.

weird. i replied to this last night but it's not showing up this morning.
i was meaning the master cylinder assembly. two hard fluid lines and two bolts attaching it to the vacuum booster.

Apologies for the gender mistake. -not a sexist thing, a simple math error. Women who do their own repairs are few and far between. Kudos to you for keeping your Disco going this long! The message is the same tho, at this age, things aren't going to get easier or cheaper. If you decide to dig in and keep going, we're here to help as you can see. Offering parts and help for free means that you are part of a great group! If you decide to pull the plug, no shame. Try to come up with a list of issues that you know of, and list it here. It's worth more to us than anyone else. If no takers, list it on craigslist as parts or repair. Hopefully someone will at least use it for parts.

As for your brake problem, it may only need new seals between the plastic reservoir and the master cylinder underneath. There's a cheap kit with a new reservoir (can't stop saying reservoir) and seals available. Another reason you need a better mechanic; The guys at Pepboys just don't know the problems that these trucks have, or the best way to fix them. They're not trained for it, nor do they care to help get you out of a jam as painless as possible. They also have liability if they don't fix brakes properly, so they would rather replace everything than just what's needed.

I agree with what Brian has written, that it may be time to sell the truck and move on for this owner, but I think he should get the power steering hose fixed first. If he tries to sell it with the power steering hose leaking that badly he won't be able to get nearly as good a price as he would if it were repaired.

The brake booster(black round part in pictures above) may be close to corroded to the point to where once it's rusts through, then you have no power brakes...you still have brakes, you'll just have to push them really hard, as there will be no power assist. Also if the rubber seal in it is dry rotted. Either way and it won't hold the vacuum to assist the brakes(there is no fluid in there).
Enough spilled brake fluid from the master cylinder(the part that bolts on to the front of the booster with 2 bolts)will eat the paint on the booster and cause it to start rusting.
If the master cylinder itself is bad, and leaking fluid, then you have air in the brake lines, and that needs to be fixed immediately, with a new mc, and bleed the brakes.
The master cylinder should be ok though, since the truck just passed a state inspection.
Either part is an easy fix.
You can replace the booster without removing any brake lines from the mc too, just gently pull the mc forward after removing both bolts.
There is a pin/clip that goes through the top of the brake pedal as well, also easy to remove.
I put a new mc on my D2 last year, and it only took a few minutes.
The mc itself also only takes a few minutes to swap, the only real time is bleeding the brakes.

does anyone know if there is any way that a pep boys mechanic could tell if the brake booster itself is about to go, or if he was actually referring to the obviously corroded master cylinder?
as has been said, the master cylinder is extremely simple to replace in a few minutes. the brakes do have to be bled afterwards.


if the decision is really whether or not to keep the vehicle, i would be looking more broadly than just the current brake and steering problems. if it looks like it's likely to have other big issues arise fairly soon then i would unload the truck. things aren't going to get cheaper or easier to fix. however, if all there is to repair is the brake cylinder and maybe a split steering hose, those could be taken care of relatively cheaply and the owner could keep the truck for herself. for a while. because something else WILL fail in a year or two at most.

Based on the photos, there is no corrosion on the booster itself. I have never seen a booster even close to rusted through, so even if there is some corrosion I cannot see I doubt if it is close to rusting through. If the power brakes still work, the booster is not bad. Boosters do fail, but you cannot see the failure visually even if you take the unit off (possible if you cut it open, but I have never tried). The leak at the master cylinder is a leak between the reservoir and the master cylinder itself, the rear port seal deteriorates from the use of DOT 3 fluid instead of the recommended DOT 4 and eventually starts leaking. It does not require complete removal of the master cylinder to replace (ie disconnection of the brake lines and the associated brake bleeding), but it is easier to do on the bench. It does require disconnection of the master cylinder from the booster to install the new seal, but no need to remove the brake lines. The seal can be ordered as part of a rebuild kit, I have ordered and replaced several as they all do it. However, as someone else pointed out, if you merely top up the fluid regularly you will not lose brakes. There is a level indicator that will turn on the red brake light in the instrument panel if it is low. Be sure to fill it as soon as that happens or you will introduce air in to the system if it gets too low. As the seal continues to deteriorate you will spend a fair amount on fluid however.

Much easier fix in my opinion than the power steering leak. 95% probability your PS pump is leaking, however at your leak rate it might also be a bad hose and that is easier to fix. The problem with the power steering pump replacement is LR put a mounting stud in the head to mount the power steering bracket on, so you have to remove the AC compressor, idler pulley, radiator fan, and compressor bracket to get the pump off. I always pull that damn stud out and throw it away as it was one of three bolts holding the pump in and is superfluous in my opinion. If the pump had been changed once before or the HG done it may be gone already, it is the top bolt holding the pump on and can be seen without disassembly if it is still there. The rave manual and some internet photos will help immensely understanding the removal and replacement of the pump. The pumps do wear out and at your mileage likely needs replacing.

To the original poster, you need to find a specialty LR shop with a good reputation and take the truck ONLY there. Any other shop will give you bad advice as these things are different from most of what the average shops work on. However, you may want to consider DIY if there is not one close by. Overall one of the great things about these Disco's is they are relatively easy to DIY. So much good information on the internet, so many videos, and so many people on the forums willing to help. It can be intimidating if you have never done it, but if you can work up the courage to make the effort I guarantee you can do it with the help from the forums. Buying the tools is cheaper than the shop labor is all cases. Most repairs can be done in a parking lot or a garage, worst case you rent a storage locker big enough to put the Disco in and get out of the weather, even if it is just for a week. If it is your only vehicle, buy all the tools and parts recommended by the forum post ahead of time and save the job for a long weekend. Don't forget Enterprise rental cars are cheap also if you need a couple days to do the job. At $30ish a day you can rent several days before you have spent even one hour of a shops time. We will get you through it, I for one am actually willing to facetime a newbie through a job is they really need help.

Good luck, and let us know if we can help.

The booster on my 04 was almost eaten through with rust.
The MC(which the po had replaced), was leaking and brake fluid ate the paint.
With the leak fixed the bottom and front of the booster were badly rusted.
I got a new booster, and replaced it.
The old one wouldn't have taken much effort to push a hole through, and another winter would have done it in.
As metal was eaten away.

This is on my to do list. When I rebuilt the Master Cylinder there was some paint and corrosion, but not near all the way through. Going to have to keep a close eye on it.

Extinct is right on here, but my experience with the rebuild kit would have me do a new Master Cylinder. This could be user error, but it started leaking again in a year or so.

The ps pump is an easy job...but the brake booster is even easier, and takes alot less time.

I agree with CollieRover - if I had to do it again I would buy a replacement master cylinder instead of the master cylinder rebuild kit. Not because mine started leaking again, but because the extra time it took to disassemble the old MC and rebuild it using the kit wasn't worth the money saved.

I am up for the challenge. Forgetting how bad the leak. When I get into the car after a couple day not driving (and its really cold outside) the steering wheel feels completely locked. It take 5/10mins for it to loosen up once I fill it with fluid. Is this what it is? Can you tell me what I need and how to do it? I also think I should get a underwash, when the shop had it up doing and oil change the bottom was soaked leaking all over!