She won't start
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: CO
You should have 12.4/12.7 volts at the large wire on the starter all the time...and roughly 12.4 (depending on condition of circuit) at the small wire, once the key is turned to the start position.
If you have 12 volts at the small wire with key in start position, you either have a bad starter or bad ground.
If you don't have 12 volts at the small wire with key in start position, you most likely have a broken wire, fuse blown, bad starter relay or ignition switch issue. You have to determine where the problem is by checking for voltage at the ignition circuit and following it to the starter.
If you have 12 volts at the large wire on the starter, you should be able to jump power across to the little wire with a screwdriver...to see if the starter engages. If it engages, this will at least tell you if you have a good starter and ground.
Good luck,
Brian.
If you have 12 volts at the small wire with key in start position, you either have a bad starter or bad ground.
If you don't have 12 volts at the small wire with key in start position, you most likely have a broken wire, fuse blown, bad starter relay or ignition switch issue. You have to determine where the problem is by checking for voltage at the ignition circuit and following it to the starter.
If you have 12 volts at the large wire on the starter, you should be able to jump power across to the little wire with a screwdriver...to see if the starter engages. If it engages, this will at least tell you if you have a good starter and ground.
Good luck,
Brian.
Just got done testing the current going to the starter motor. It seems like the system is functioning as it should.
The Lucar connection is cold and when I turn the key it jumps to 12.16V The Positive is at 12.36V and drops to 12.20V.
So I am wondering if its possible that I got a bad stater motor?
I've used small jumper cables to test a starter. Also with a well insulated screwdriver jumping it isn't a big deal at all.
I'd check all your relays in the fuse block under the hood. A vehicle sitting for a long time can also attract unwanted little hairy guest that love to eat through wires.
The alarm is functioning like it should from the sounds of it.
I'd check all your relays in the fuse block under the hood. A vehicle sitting for a long time can also attract unwanted little hairy guest that love to eat through wires.
The alarm is functioning like it should from the sounds of it.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4,860
Likes: 1,401
From: Michigan
Just got done testing the current going to the starter motor. It seems like the system is functioning as it should.
The Lucar connection is cold and when I turn the key it jumps to 12.16V The Positive is at 12.36V and drops to 12.20V.
So I am wondering if its possible that I got a bad stater motor?
The Lucar connection is cold and when I turn the key it jumps to 12.16V The Positive is at 12.36V and drops to 12.20V.
So I am wondering if its possible that I got a bad stater motor?
Measuring voltage is a tricky process, just because you have 12.36 at the heavy/large wire...doesn't necessarliy mean you have a good wire, one that will carry enough amperage to turn the starter motor. Voltage is one way of seeing if you have continuity, but one strand of wire within the cable will carry 12 volts...and give you a false sense of having everything you need to get the starter spinning. However, it isn't voltage that turns the starter...it's the amperage. One strand of wire within the cable will not carry enough amperage to do the job.
This applies to both positive and negative cables, that is why the terminals have to be clean and tight at the battery and not rubbed through anywhere between point A and point B.
Now, with all of that being said...since your reading at the large wire isn't changing dramatically when turning the key...I'd lean towards either the starter being bad or you have a bad ground (cable or battery terminal). If the voltage went extremely low when you turned the key, then I would investigate the positive cable and connections.
Out of curiosity...did you get the old starter checked after removing? You can do it yourself, if you have a set of jumper cables. Just hook one end to your battery as if you are jumping a vehicle, but connect the other ends to the starter, ground to starter housing and positive across both large and small terminals at the same time. This may give you a bit of insight, too. If your old one spins, this will help you diagnous the problem even more.
Brian.
Thread Starter
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: CO
Just got done testing the current going to the starter motor. It seems like the system is functioning as it should.
The Lucar connection is cold and when I turn the key it jumps to 12.16V The Positive is at 12.36V and drops to 12.20V.
So I am wondering if its possible that I got a bad stater motor?
The Lucar connection is cold and when I turn the key it jumps to 12.16V The Positive is at 12.36V and drops to 12.20V.
So I am wondering if its possible that I got a bad stater motor?
Okay pulled the stater and bench tested it and it fired right up...
So I'm pretty confused here. The starter is getting power from the main positive and I am getting power from the Lucar cable when I turn the ignition switch but no action at all at the starter.
I checked my ground cables and they all look clean. Am I missing one? Checked my fuses and they seam fine. I just don't know how to check those big block fuses?
What should I look for next?
Thread Starter
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: CO
That is always a possibility, but let's not jump to that conclusion just yet.
Measuring voltage is a tricky process, just because you have 12.36 at the heavy/large wire...doesn't necessarliy mean you have a good wire, one that will carry enough amperage to turn the starter motor. Voltage is one way of seeing if you have continuity, but one strand of wire within the cable will carry 12 volts...and give you a false sense of having everything you need to get the starter spinning. However, it isn't voltage that turns the starter...it's the amperage. One strand of wire within the cable will not carry enough amperage to do the job.
This applies to both positive and negative cables, that is why the terminals have to be clean and tight at the battery and not rubbed through anywhere between point A and point B.
Now, with all of that being said...since your reading at the large wire isn't changing dramatically when turning the key...I'd lean towards either the starter being bad or you have a bad ground (cable or battery terminal). If the voltage went extremely low when you turned the key, then I would investigate the positive cable and connections.
Out of curiosity...did you get the old starter checked after removing? You can do it yourself, if you have a set of jumper cables. Just hook one end to your battery as if you are jumping a vehicle, but connect the other ends to the starter, ground to starter housing and positive across both large and small terminals at the same time. This may give you a bit of insight, too. If your old one spins, this will help you diagnous the problem even more.
Brian.
Measuring voltage is a tricky process, just because you have 12.36 at the heavy/large wire...doesn't necessarliy mean you have a good wire, one that will carry enough amperage to turn the starter motor. Voltage is one way of seeing if you have continuity, but one strand of wire within the cable will carry 12 volts...and give you a false sense of having everything you need to get the starter spinning. However, it isn't voltage that turns the starter...it's the amperage. One strand of wire within the cable will not carry enough amperage to do the job.
This applies to both positive and negative cables, that is why the terminals have to be clean and tight at the battery and not rubbed through anywhere between point A and point B.
Now, with all of that being said...since your reading at the large wire isn't changing dramatically when turning the key...I'd lean towards either the starter being bad or you have a bad ground (cable or battery terminal). If the voltage went extremely low when you turned the key, then I would investigate the positive cable and connections.
Out of curiosity...did you get the old starter checked after removing? You can do it yourself, if you have a set of jumper cables. Just hook one end to your battery as if you are jumping a vehicle, but connect the other ends to the starter, ground to starter housing and positive across both large and small terminals at the same time. This may give you a bit of insight, too. If your old one spins, this will help you diagnous the problem even more.
Brian.
Thanks for the input. I am going to go through the cables with more detail. Perhaps I am missing a few connections. I am wondering if its more of a ground issue. Is it time for a new cable harness or is that to dramatic?
Where does the starter get its ground from?
I did test my old starter and it would not fire up. Its also covered in oil and other crap so I'm gonna clean it up and test it again.
Rock Crawling
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 340
Likes: 28
From: Central Texas
Starter gets its ground from either direct negative to battery or ground strap to frame then up to battery. I've seen it both ways. My 98 has battery negative straight to bottom bolt of starter
Thread Starter
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Three Wheeling
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: CO
SOLVED!!! She's Running again!
Okay so... this is just sad. But I took some pics of the starter and was talking to a buddy of mine and the more I looked at it I realized the solenoid had 3 prong like tabs that one would consider to be for the Lucar cable.
So I swapped the Lucar connection to the other tab and... yeah she fired right up.
The starter motor is a Duralast from AutoZone.
I don't know how I missed that but I am glad this is over with. Whats great is I can get that starter in and out now in 10 min. ha!
Thank you everyone I learned a lot.
So I swapped the Lucar connection to the other tab and... yeah she fired right up.
The starter motor is a Duralast from AutoZone.
I don't know how I missed that but I am glad this is over with. Whats great is I can get that starter in and out now in 10 min. ha!
Thank you everyone I learned a lot.
Baja
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 5,845
Likes: 368
From: Near Bordeaux, France
Okay so... this is just sad. But I took some pics of the starter and was talking to a buddy of mine and the more I looked at it I realized the solenoid had 3 prong like tabs that one would consider to be for the Lucar cable.
So I swapped the Lucar connection to the other tab and... yeah she fired right up.
The starter motor is a Duralast from AutoZone.
I don't know how I missed that but I am glad this is over with. Whats great is I can get that starter in and out now in 10 min. ha!
Thank you everyone I learned a lot.
So I swapped the Lucar connection to the other tab and... yeah she fired right up.
The starter motor is a Duralast from AutoZone.
I don't know how I missed that but I am glad this is over with. Whats great is I can get that starter in and out now in 10 min. ha!
Thank you everyone I learned a lot.
How do you like the Vienne green body?, it's the same color as I have but mines a 2003. I find it good for not showing up the dirt and defects especially after owning a black D2.
