...i just jacked the front up to test the wheels/hubs...there is no play in either of the front wheels (in any direction). i attempted to shake the front drive shaft and there was no play up and down or side to side...it did turn about half an inch. i am stumped. from reading old posts, i was certain it was either a bad shaft or hubs. also, i found a grease fitting on the UJ by the differential (pic attached) sorry if this is a dumb question but does that mean it's an aftermarket shaft?

 

if you have grease zerks on the u-joints. it has been replaced.

have you re-greased them?

i believe original front drive shaft only had one zerk on the shaft and no zerks on the u-joints.

.

 

i haven't re-greased...could that solve the vibration and chirp problem?

it looks like its directly on the u-joint in the pic so i guess it's aftermarket.

thank you!

 

not to sure if that will fix the problem. but if they get dry. it can cause simular things to happen.

 

Original front shaft has 1 zerk on the u-joint closest to the diff. The other 2 UJ on the other end didn't have any grease fittings from the factory.

So it's probably the original shaft and probably needs replacing right away. If it's chirping it is dry and no way to grease it.
It will fly apart and knock a hole in the trans.... happens all the time. Some have knocked a hole in the trans doing only 10 MPH.

You can rebuild it but, don't use cheap UJ's, best to use GKN medium or heavy duty or if you don't want to spend that much Moog makes decent ones for less. You can get the moog ones at rockauto. Moog 344 UJ x 3 and Moog 617 centering ball x 1. The original centering ball needs replacing also and it can be a mother to change out.

The GKN u-joints are pricey. Rovahfarm and some others carry those. If you want GKN you may want to shop around. And with GKN there is light/regular duty, medium duty and heavy duty and some vendors don't make it very clear which you are buying so, be sure you know what you are getting. If you go with GKN go with HD if possible or at least medium duty.

Stay away from the GKN look alike knock off U-Joints on ebay and elsewhere. I hear they are total garbage. (the knock offs will look like a GKN heavy duty with silver metal caps over the seals but, will not have GKN cast into the body)

Or if you just want to buy a driveshaft and put it in here's a link to a fully greasable one from a company that sells drive shafts only. They have 100% positive feedback so must be honest and have good drive shafts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271623662431...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Also GBR and Tom Woods both have good ones for a little more.

You can buy the Tom Woods through Lucky8 , a forum member.

 

what he said. there should be more than one zerk on the shaft if it has been replaced.

if you can only find one zerk. then its the original. sorry for the confusion.

 

thanks so much rickety...that is a huge help. i will buy the 3 UJs and centering ball. i'm going to try and get that shaft out of there asap. question: can i drive the truck with only the rear drive shaft in? this wouldnt be at high speed or long distance, just to get around town.

 

what year truck do you have? does it have center locking diff?

 

it's a 99...

 

If you have center differential lock you can remove the front shaft, lock the diffs and drive it.

If you do not have a locking differential you can't. If you remove the front shaft on a truck with no way to center lock the transfer case, It will try to send all of the power to the front wheels and with no front driveshaft, no go!

If you don't have a CDL locking shifter inside, you should be able to feel on top of the transfer case and maybe lock it from there.

Search around on here a little and it'll point you to the right location and how to lock it manually with a wrench from underneath the truck on top of the transfer case. If you have a center locking transfer case.