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Every part of the cooling system is new. Water pump, fan, radiator, thermostat with inline mod and head gasket done. Coolant seems to be flowing just fine, my next step is to get an IR thermometer just to double check
With a blown HG and the cap tight the pressure forces coolant in the engine faster, it causes it to drink it faster. Loosen the cap one turn and it will run ok in turns of temperature , assuming you have it full of coolant and keep it that way. Unsure how fast it will drink, depends how bad the leak is. Antifreeze is not as bad as plain water for the rings/cylinder, but it definitely kills the oxygen sensors.
Every part of the cooling system is new. Water pump, fan, radiator, thermostat with inline mod and head gasket done. Coolant seems to be flowing just fine, my next step is to get an IR thermometer just to double check
Yeah, sorry, missed that in the initial thread. As pointed out, a compression check before you pull the heads may give you a clue as to where to look for a compromised gasket. You can also put a clean sheet of cardboard under the truck after you park it to see if there are external drips. Depending on how much you're losing it may be evaporating off the hot engine but even a single drip will show up on cardboard. Along with all the oil
With a blown HG and the cap tight the pressure forces coolant in the engine faster, it causes it to drink it faster. Loosen the cap one turn and it will run ok in turns of temperature , assuming you have it full of coolant and keep it that way. Unsure how fast it will drink, depends how bad the leak is. Antifreeze is not as bad as plain water for the rings/cylinder, but it definitely kills the oxygen sensors.
Well I do know the o2 sensors are bad (2 of them at least according to codes) the PO already had new ones so I will install them today. I forgot to get the pressure test yesterday because I was focused on getting a socket to get a tire off due to a leak but I have to go back today because I got a 27mm and it actually needs around a 21mm so ill rent the pressure test for sure. I feel like there is either a pressure leak or the coolant was never completely filled before because every time I bleed the system there is air coming out with the exception of yesterday morning. I am also starting to think the HG either wasnt actually done or they botched it, after a closer inspection it doesnt look like that part of the engine has been touched recently.
Yeah, sorry, missed that in the initial thread. As pointed out, a compression check before you pull the heads may give you a clue as to where to look for a compromised gasket. You can also put a clean sheet of cardboard under the truck after you park it to see if there are external drips. Depending on how much you're losing it may be evaporating off the hot engine but even a single drip will show up on cardboard. Along with all the oil
A compression test has already been done and everything was within the correct ranges.
Ok guys so I have a cracked block for sure, I spoke to the LR mechanic that did the work on it for the PO and he confirmed that. Love when you dont get the whole story, not that I had not already been considering an engine swap but because I wasted hours testing and playing with it hoping it was something I could fix. Anyway, so now I have been reading on here about the various options, mainly a rebuilt 4.6 / 4.0 or going all out on the LS swap (what I really want to do). For Extinct and others that are well versed, are there any other options that I need to be aware of? Mainly I have seen some p38 swaps but what about newer LR engines or just any other options. I want to keep this build under $5k (well under would be great) and I cannot do the work myself now as I no longer have a garage or lift and my new job wont give me the time either. Thanks in advance yall! She's worth saving!
LS swap will cost you a fair bit, P38 engine would be simplest that will run between 1500 to 3000 for a complete engine. And it will still need to be gone over so 5000 will be tough
Yeah;, 5000 will be difficult without doing a lot of the work yourself. You might get away with 7 to 8k with a P38 block and a respectable LR specific shop doing the installation.
It might actually be cheaper to buy another D2 with a decent engine.
There are other options, but I am doubting the cracked block diagnosis. I have never personally seen one, and I am on #15 at the moment.
That said, given you can no longer do the work yourself you may be better off swapping in a complete engine. Your least expensive route is gonna be a 4.0 Disco motor. As I said before there are several breakers in NC, I am guessing you get a complete engine for around $500-700. I would guess around 8 hrs for an engine remove and replace. Not sure what your guy charges.
If it was me I would replace the following during the R&R because it is much faster with the engine on the stand than in the truck.
Sounds like several of these have already been done, so you could swap between the two.
Given your change in work situation now might not be the time for a Disco with a bad motor, sounds like you got it right so maybe you can resell and make a few bucks.
