View Poll Results: What is the most reliable year
00
2
5.71%
01
9
25.71%
02
8
22.86%
03
2
5.71%
04
12
34.29%
99 (apparently that's a thing)
3
8.57%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 35. You may not vote on this poll
So what is the BEST year for a d2?
#23
11-15-2019, 09:30 AM
From what I've seen/read on the subject, the earlier engines should be more reliable due to less wear existing on the factory tooling and therefore tighter tolerances built into the engines.
I don't know if there's much empirical evidence to support this, but since the main reason these engines have issues with slipped liners is because the factory tolerances got worse over the years (because Land Rover couldn't afford to upgrade worn tooling), then it stands to reason that earlier engines would be more reliable as they were built with less-worn tooling than later ones.
I don't know if there's much empirical evidence to support this, but since the main reason these engines have issues with slipped liners is because the factory tolerances got worse over the years (because Land Rover couldn't afford to upgrade worn tooling), then it stands to reason that earlier engines would be more reliable as they were built with less-worn tooling than later ones.
#24
11-15-2019, 11:45 AM
Super Moderator
I’ve mentioned it before 03-04 were 4.6L’s and they also had SAI as standard (minus a few 03’s that were basically late 02’s). They were made to run warmer for Emissions plan & simple. It was the last attempt at making the 60’s V8 emission friendly.
It did not help on a setup which was already touchy when it came to engine temps/cooling.
It did not help on a setup which was already touchy when it came to engine temps/cooling.
#25
11-15-2019, 02:39 PM
#26
11-15-2019, 03:52 PM
Super Moderator
#27
11-15-2019, 04:37 PM
TReK
I’ve mentioned it before 03-04 were 4.6L’s and they also had SAI as standard (minus a few 03’s that were basically late 02’s). They were made to run warmer for Emissions plan & simple. It was the last attempt at making the 60’s V8 emission friendly.
It did not help on a setup which was already touchy when it came to engine temps/cooling.
It did not help on a setup which was already touchy when it came to engine temps/cooling.
Interesting I thought all d2 ran hot and most overheated at some time or another
The following users liked this post:
Sixpack577 (11-15-2019)
#29
11-15-2019, 05:01 PM
#30
11-15-2019, 05:12 PM
@redwhitekat The problem is a temperature gauge that only moves once you are overheating already, and this is not unique to LR that is pretty much all manufacturers thanks to stupid owners. You know the ones who freak out because a gauge moves.
Really they do not overheat that much, but they run way too close to temps where it becomes a problem so you do not have a lot headroom once things go south. Ideally you want to keep an aluminum head under 220F degrees, so you look at the stock thermostat starts to open at 179 and is fully open at 204 with AC fan helping if you hit 212. If everything is is on good shape you should run between 204 and around 215 with that setup,but that only leaves 5 degrees to 220 and 15 to 230 - beyond 230 the odds of you having issues from overheat are very high. hit 240 and it is almost 100%.
Really they do not overheat that much, but they run way too close to temps where it becomes a problem so you do not have a lot headroom once things go south. Ideally you want to keep an aluminum head under 220F degrees, so you look at the stock thermostat starts to open at 179 and is fully open at 204 with AC fan helping if you hit 212. If everything is is on good shape you should run between 204 and around 215 with that setup,but that only leaves 5 degrees to 220 and 15 to 230 - beyond 230 the odds of you having issues from overheat are very high. hit 240 and it is almost 100%.