I swear, my breaks are as soft as a woman's naughty bits !! I have slotted and drilled at all wheels, and the brake travel is like going into another country before I hit resistance and finally stop. What do I need?? New brake booster?? Thicker brake pedal ? Platform shoes ?? WTF??

 

Were they always like this ? Or this happen after you put the new brakes on ?
What pads you using ?
What rotors you using ?
What is your brake fluid level ?
any vacuum leaks ?
Any trouble codes ?

 

Always this way. New rotors from lucky 8. Akebono pads. Fluid changed three years ago. At least this time; no three amigos.

 

The list is short

Got fluid? If not where is the leak?

Properly bled?

All the above is good I would be eye balling the master cylinder

 

Check the vacuum lines any leaks will also give you a mushy to very mushy pedal

 

You should flush your brakes every 2 years. When bleeding, you need to bleed, exercise the Hill Descent Control to get air pockets out of the ABS, then bleed again.

 

I hadnt heard this about the Hill Descent and I can accomplish in my driveway which will be nice

 

Power Bleeding is the proper term, to where you activate the ABS pump & make sure to get all the air out of the system. It can be done with LR scan tools or a 15-20ft lead of wires and a toggle switch.

 

Well yeah, if you have a Nanocom you should use that instead, but HDC is the cheap way to make sure all the solenoids get activated and you don't have air trapped in the modulator.

 

Never ever run drilled rotors, I wouldn't suggest slotted either, though there's some exceptions and specific cases such as cleaning mud out at low speeds like dirtbikes or a rock crawler that lives in mud perhaps or if you have a 250,000 dollar vehicle that truly needs it's un-sprung/rotational mass reduced by a fraction of a pound to win a race, which probably isn't the Disco 2.

I suggest you run basic blanks in the future. $.02

Drilled rotors crack 100% of the time when worked hard. Slotted are better but again prone to cracking.

BOTH slotted and drilled are WORSE for COOLING. It is the PAD that overheats and causes brake fade, not the rotor. By removing material from the rotor like drilling/slotting you actually lower the contact area against the pad which means the pad actually gets hotter since it is the rotor that is cooling it. So you'll more likely experience cracking and you'll certainly have worse braking performance when it comes to overheating. Lastly many pads will actually chip and fail as the operator isn't aware of the very detailed types of pad compounds that should and should not be used with slotted rotors.

So with that out of the way:

#1 bleed your brakes and do it correctly. You can pressure bleed em with a friend, you can gravity bleed em, you can use a machine to bleed em. Personally I gravity bleed and depending on the vehicle the order that each caliper is bled is different!!!!! On my S2000 for example it's Front Left > Front Right > Rear Right > Rear Left. This has to do with the path and lengths of the brake lines. So if you really want to make the most of your system, be sure to get out all the air and grime and use the proper order! I would bet right now you have dirt in your lines and quite bit of air.

I bleed every other time with a different color fluid, blue/amber, this allows me to easily see when I've fully bled the system as the color changes. Note that DOT fluid #s are not all compatible. I'd use what's suggested unless you've already gone from #3 to #4 in which case you can't go back to #3. This vehicle is not going to need to go higher than 3 or 4 and if you are overheating, buy better pads. I can run autzone pads in my car and literally destroy them in one day of driving hard or I can spend 4x the price and have great pads that last a season. In the case of the disco, the better of autozone type stuff will be fine and dandy, you don't need to spend $500 on a set of pads for a SUV but I wouldn't run the cheapest stuff as those organics go to mush quick.

You could additionally have mechanical parts failing but I wouldn't even touch that idea until I had the system bled properly. Others explained already the ABS bit.

BTW Akebono pads are about as good as you can get for the money, high end manufacturers use them and relabel them under their own name.

Lastly, brake your pads in correctly. Check the manufacture website, you'll see it takes quite a lot of miles until they'r ready for hard stops! This will make your pads last much longer and work better. Hell the same can be done to tires but nobody cares enough to do it unless they're on a race track.

-Greg