The subject of replacing U-joint has come up in many of the recent posts, I’ve decided to put preventative maintenance in play before I too cry the new transmission song .

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I took my 03 Rover to a very reputable driveline shop here in So Cal to get some input on replacing all of the factory joints (almost 100k on the original factory parts). The shop specializes in drivelines and builds custom DLs for racecars and 4WD enthusiasts.

The shop owner suggested / insisted not using grease able U-joints.

He said that the drilled part is much weaker than a solid U-joint and that when they see failed joints, it’s usually a grease able type. He guaranteed the solid parts will go 100k miles under normal use and frowned on the grease.

He even wants to replace the existing grease able U-joint with solid.

Any experts want to voice an opinion?

 

Wow, that's a very valid point regarding the strength of the components. There has to be truth in it if you factor in the logic of it all.
I'm curious if the gent is aware of the real issue of the exhaust being so close to the joints on the D2that it drys the grease in them. Another factor to consider is the comparison of torque involved between a "hopped up" race vehicle or off-roader and a let's say...a stock D2.
Again.....I think this is a valid point andcould develope into an interesting thread andI can't wait for additional posts.
dk

 

No doubt the man is an expert on driveshafts and U-joints. He's probably not an expert on Land Rovers, however. From an engineering point of view, the drilled U-joint could be marginally weaker than a non-drilled part, as the hole creates a stress riser, which could be the origination point for a crack- particularly if the hole is not finished smoothly.

However, the important thing here is context. The context in this case of courseis the Land Rover Discovery. The field experience of people with drilled, greasable U-joints on the Discoveryis far batter than the non-greasable kind. I would insist he install the parts that Mike has listed in other threads.

Cheers,
Dave

 

I know the two shops in your area, good shops, but I still believe you need greaseable u-joints. 90% plus of the failures of u-joints is not from the joint breaking it is from the bearing getting fried and failing.
If you want a stronger u_joint, go to, http://www.roverconnection.com/ and buy their u-joints that are drilled on the end caps instead of thru the base, they are alot stronger and greasable too.

 

Thatis BS, its becausethat isall he had at the time.
I have seen the holders(U bolts)of the u-joints brake far more often
than a u-joint.

My last 4x4 had oem grease fittings on allthe u-joints and I would
grease them every three Mo's and they only lasted 200,000 miles
but thats when I sold the truck so as far as I know its still
going.

 

BTW I just replaced all of mine. I bought them at Advance, all they had were PDQ 1-0005. The numbers are from memory, but I am sure its pretty close. They were about $16 and have the grease fitting on the end cap.

Regards
Andy

 

I agree with the last 3 posts. They will fail due to no grease before they break, if they break, it will be a bolt first, and if you (or the shop) are that worried, get one with zerks in the cap.

 

Race cars are subjected to extreme and sometimes violent torque, and they sure as hell never see 100k miles or anything close. They either get rebuilt or totaled long before 10k even. Like Geotrash said; our context is much different. Plus there is the empirical evidence of many reported premature failures of the non greaseable joints sitting right next to the exhaust of a LR Disco. I haven't read any reports of the greaseable UJs failing prematurely on a Disco...at least not the ones that were routinely greased.

 

Mike,

Pardon my ignorance. But how(where) do you grease the joints from roverconnection? I was looking at the $39 DII, PART #TVC100010A.

Thanks

-UG

 

I received my new grease-able U-joints today from Rover Connection.

BigUgly82- The part is fitted with a drilled bolt that houses a small valve type apparatus. It appears that a standard grease gunmay work with the head.

My only concern is the that grease fitting is soooo loose, it could unthread itself and fall out. I’m considering Lock Tight-ing it in place.

If any one has experience with this part, your suggestions are welcomed.

MWmG



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