Plan about 18hrs. Was able to back disco in garage and use light rope to hood latch and get hood way up without prop rod..Save removing bonnet.Put a folded rag where rope hits hood. The sai threaded port can stay on until heads are off, able to work around them. Suggest you take them out when heads are out as it is very hard to torque the head bolts without rounding them as wrench hits the threaded portion and is easy to round lower head bolts. manual says replace them.. When pulling the drivers head, pull up and move fwd approx 1-2 inch,then able to release electrical conduit and the crank sensor conn, and upstream o2 sensor. I left my o2 sensor connections free off the mount and zip tied them aside. much easier to replace upstreams now. If not replacing water pump fan can stay on. The power steering alum bracket has a long stud approx 4-5 inch, the power steering bracket deal will come off after head released and pull head back and pull stud thru p.s. bracket. I contact cleaned ALL elect connectors and applied dielectric grease. When replacing drivers head leave gasket off and put folded rag at back corner to rest head 1-2 inch fwd and connect crank sensor,and wire loom clamp. then gasket and slip head into place. The coil still will not fit with lower manifold on. Had to take off the (new) wires and slip coil into place then reconnect all wires..make sure to make a picture and number wires at plug end with sharpie....Good luck all....Runs like a champ and no more leaks...oil or coolant. Randy....

 

I never had to mess with the crank sensor when replacing the heads or head gaskets.
Would advise not touching the crank sensor or crank sensor wiring.

Leaving the fan on makes it really really hard to remove the bolts which hold the bracket in which hold the accessories like alternator and power steering pump.

Congratulations for surviving it!!!

 

The alternator is no prob with fan on, the two bolts have loads of clearance.Power steering pump has about 6in clearance to get at bolts, except for the long stud, which isnt a prob if head is lifted up and just moved about 1/2inch back while removing, power steering block/bracket just slipped right off. The fan takes a "special tool" for removal, and leaving it in place protects expensive radiator. Mine stayed on the whole time. Crank sensor bracket has to be removed (see thread for ''head gasket change,now no spark''). Thanks to everyone for quick responses....

 

I never removed the crank sensor bracket...
I have a 2001 D2.
Wonder if this is different?

the biggest headache was the SAI wishbone pipe and the SAI adapters for me.

 

My first adventure under there, I just cut off the stud that causes all the issues around the PAS bracket. No problems at all after it was cut off, all comes out easy as pie. I left about 1/2" of the bolt sticking out for alignment, but cut the rest off.