hey folks i got a 99 DII, and i desperately need some help i have the three amigos, and ive been fighting with them since i got the truck. i had the abs modulator changed, because the shop that i brought it to said i needed to. while that was happening my back right brake pad, and rotor got eaten up, all while my brakes squealed like a pig, and my brakes were mushy (which they still are.. even after countless bleeds.) so when i got the abs modulator changed for $2000!!!!! they went away. a month went by and the stupid amigos came back. i brought it back to the shop and charged me $90 to read the codes, and like nothing happened they tell me to cough up $1400 for FL hub&bearing assembly, and sensor... they didn't give me the codes just a print out of the parts, and how much everything was going to cost. after that i decided that i would bring it home first clean the sensor and check the hub for dirt,dust,metal.... whatever could give a bad read out. another thing Ive noticed is that the modulator on both old and new makes a sound when off and on as well as the fuse box. it goes away when the car is stopped for a long time... i was thinking a short or something... i don't know but its pissing me off and its driving me broke as well as crazy. the problem isn't the money, i just don't want to throw away money on the car, anything you can tell me would be awesome, thank you for your help guys

 

First of all stop taking it to the dealer. Second never just let them do whatever they want.
I changed my own hub for $250. An Indy shop will charge about 3 hours + parts ($750 total). My modulator makes a noise too.

3 amigos can be caused by squeaky brakes, a bad hub, wheel shake, a bad sensor, a bad shuttle valve, modulator, module, etc. Let us know if any of that sounds familiar.

 

You need to start by flushing your brake fluid, get rid of the old and repalce it with all new.
That will help your mushy brake pedal.
Then you need to know the codes that are coming up, if they wont give them to you then take it somewhere else.
Any indie shop with a ABS scanner can rear the codes.
You can buy yoru own ABS scanner on line for about $200, read your own codes and then we can help you figure out the real problem.
And just a FYI, squeaky brakes can set off the codes.

 

yeah my brakes squeak like hell. i also feel a slight rattle when i go over bumps.. its very slight but its there. when i tested the brakes... slammed on the brakes... (and i know the abs is disengaged,) i also found that the truck was pulling towards the left. my plan was to change the fluid because when i bled them today the fluid was black and it had particles in it so ill do a complete flush during the week, ill also change the front breaks, and match them with the back ones..... i think they're called trw... trx i don't remember, and then finally replace the sensor (the front left). thank you guys for the speedy anwers your rockin, and your a big help.

 

Black brake fluid with particles in it?!! Take care of that first before you burn up another modulator.

 

oh also i don't know if this helps the but the lights don't go on and off. they are on at start up... i don't know if this answers your question about the squeaky brakes spike.

 

yeah that's what i was thinking it the fluid wasn't black, or had particles in it with the old modulator. when i did the shuttle valve repair kit it was spotless, but i changed it any way.

 

Welcome to the madness!!!!

 

The lights will not go off until you get them cleared with a diagnostic scanner. That is why the codes are needed to truly troubleshoot. You can try the bleed and new brakes but you will not see if that is the cure until you get the lights turned off.

 

Do the fluid, then replace your brakes, pads and rotors if necessary, use lots of sound deaden spray and only buy the pads on line thru any of the Rover outlets like Atlantic British, Rover Connection or DAP.
Once you have done that then sen me your number and I'll walk you thru the rest.