sound diagnosis
#1
sound diagnosis
For the last few days my car has been making a slight whining noise only when accelerating and more during the low speeds. We replaced the water pump in december and the belt with it since it snapped. This morning now there is a concerning rattling almost grinding noise when driving. Does anyone have any ideas what this could be? Thanks for any help you can provide
#4
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA (thereabouts)
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You should be able to spin the fan by hand, with the engine off of course! But it should only spin about 1/4 of a turn then stop. It has been described as feeling like there's peanut butter inside the clutch. It's common for the fan to make a loud whirring noise on startup, then calm down as the viscous fluid heats up. If it doesn't go away, it could be a sign that it has seized. (You'll know for sure if you can't spin it by hand.) The rattling/grinding noise could be also be a sign of a bad clutch. Or, hopefully not, it's out of balance and has worn out the bearings in your new water pump prematurely.
#6
Can you spin it "wheel of fortune" style with multiple revs? It shouldn't be like that, and I'm not sure how it could fail that way. The viscous clutch on my discovery feels more "free" than any other clutched fan I've used, but I still can't get a complete revolution out of it. Now, I can spin it 3/4 turns all day long, if I want. This is normal.
Usually it fails seized and it won't move at all. So it sounds like yours is working fine, but as has been mentioned in a previous post, it's a good idea to change it when you do the water pump.
When I had my 540i, a failed viscous clutch was like the Disco's front drive shaft failure. it would fail and allow the fan to overspeed, the stress would shatter the blades sending shrapnel severing the coolant hoses and puncturing the radiator.
If you didn't get off the road, you could overheat the aluminum engine and be forced to do a head-gasket repair which was multi-thousands of dollars since the average Joe can't set a VANOS head without special calibration tools. It was a cheap and easy part, and became a preventative maintenance replacement per water pump change out, much like we disco owners put in greasable u-joints.
Usually it fails seized and it won't move at all. So it sounds like yours is working fine, but as has been mentioned in a previous post, it's a good idea to change it when you do the water pump.
When I had my 540i, a failed viscous clutch was like the Disco's front drive shaft failure. it would fail and allow the fan to overspeed, the stress would shatter the blades sending shrapnel severing the coolant hoses and puncturing the radiator.
If you didn't get off the road, you could overheat the aluminum engine and be forced to do a head-gasket repair which was multi-thousands of dollars since the average Joe can't set a VANOS head without special calibration tools. It was a cheap and easy part, and became a preventative maintenance replacement per water pump change out, much like we disco owners put in greasable u-joints.
#8
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Atlanta, GA (thereabouts)
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Does it make the noise when you're revving it in the driveway, while the vehicle is in motion, or both? Any noticeable change in how the steering or brakes feel?
Last edited by SSL9000J; 05-16-2013 at 12:42 PM.
#9
I found after crawling under my car it appears I have some bad u joints on front drive shaft
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