Squealing from both front wheels - is this wheel hub? [video]
#1
Squealing from both front wheels - is this wheel hub? [video]
Here's the video:
The sound is definitely more pronounced with ear next to the lugnuts, as opposed to in the wheel well.
Thinking its the hub/bearing - but its happening on both front wheels - odd for both of them to go out at the same time?
Couple days ago I was hearing a clank only when moving, but not accelerating. Did not hear that noise today... just this squeaking, like an old mattress.
Thanks
The sound is definitely more pronounced with ear next to the lugnuts, as opposed to in the wheel well.
Thinking its the hub/bearing - but its happening on both front wheels - odd for both of them to go out at the same time?
Couple days ago I was hearing a clank only when moving, but not accelerating. Did not hear that noise today... just this squeaking, like an old mattress.
Thanks
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Lisa Bunch (11-10-2017)
#2
Hi Jeff
Unless you have someone 'humping' on a mattress in the back of the D2 it sounds like you have problems with your CV joints. It's unusual to have both sides let go at once.
Do you have non standard wheels fitted?
Do you have wheel spacers fitted?
Are the wheel bearings and CV joints the originals?
Have you fitted anything to the front drive train that is non standard?
Unless you have someone 'humping' on a mattress in the back of the D2 it sounds like you have problems with your CV joints. It's unusual to have both sides let go at once.
Do you have non standard wheels fitted?
Do you have wheel spacers fitted?
Are the wheel bearings and CV joints the originals?
Have you fitted anything to the front drive train that is non standard?
#3
France,
Haha no humping going on... I save that for the bedroom
- I have terrafirma beadlock 16x7 wheels
- No spacers
- CV and hubs are originals (as far as I know)
- Tom woods Double cardon driveshaft is the only thing I can think of. The only work I've done recently is 3" RTE springs.
I did a little research and I think you are right about the CV joint. It also explains the clanking I was hearing the other day when I was coasting.
How bad is the job? The part is cheap enough, $30 (x2), but is there a chance the axle shaft would also need to get replaced? The parts manual suggests the axle and CV joints are normally sold as a complete unit.
Haha no humping going on... I save that for the bedroom
- I have terrafirma beadlock 16x7 wheels
- No spacers
- CV and hubs are originals (as far as I know)
- Tom woods Double cardon driveshaft is the only thing I can think of. The only work I've done recently is 3" RTE springs.
I did a little research and I think you are right about the CV joint. It also explains the clanking I was hearing the other day when I was coasting.
How bad is the job? The part is cheap enough, $30 (x2), but is there a chance the axle shaft would also need to get replaced? The parts manual suggests the axle and CV joints are normally sold as a complete unit.
#4
#5
The axles are not in stock (TDB500240 / TDB500250) so it looks like I'll be doing the CV and boot only.
There's a kit that has a bunch of gaskets and stuff... I can't even find those gaskets / extra parts included in the parts diagrams:
Kit:
https://www.lrdirect.com/DA6063-Kit-...keep_https=yes
Separately:
https://www.lrdirect.com/TDR100790-C...keep_https=yes
https://www.lrdirect.com/TDR100780-G...keep_https=yes
Get the kit?
There's a kit that has a bunch of gaskets and stuff... I can't even find those gaskets / extra parts included in the parts diagrams:
Kit:
https://www.lrdirect.com/DA6063-Kit-...keep_https=yes
Separately:
https://www.lrdirect.com/TDR100790-C...keep_https=yes
https://www.lrdirect.com/TDR100780-G...keep_https=yes
Get the kit?
#6
Actually RockAuto has the CV+shaft for only $75
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....sn=348&jsn=348
Quality..?
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....sn=348&jsn=348
Quality..?
#7
Jeff, do a simple test on the CV's, clamp the diff flange solid using a G clamp and rod, check the play in the diff first and movement at the wheel. Then check the CV for movement whilst turning the steering wheel from lock to lock slowly (you'll need help with this, that's what wives are for)
TIP: If the CV's are shot, replace the whole drive shaft complete not just the CV's as the driveshafts will probably be worn also. Also replace very carefully the inner drive shaft seal just behind the CV's. Take a special note of which way the old one comes out as they are a rarity. Use genuine LR Corteco seals as replacements not other rubbish.
Corteco: Online Catalogue
Sorry Jeff, I didn't answer your main question. It takes a few hours to do both CV's/shafts as you'll have to strip off the brake caliper, rotor and carrier for access. I reckon 2-3 hours per side to finish the job completely including a shaft seal.
TIP: If the CV's are shot, replace the whole drive shaft complete not just the CV's as the driveshafts will probably be worn also. Also replace very carefully the inner drive shaft seal just behind the CV's. Take a special note of which way the old one comes out as they are a rarity. Use genuine LR Corteco seals as replacements not other rubbish.
Corteco: Online Catalogue
Sorry Jeff, I didn't answer your main question. It takes a few hours to do both CV's/shafts as you'll have to strip off the brake caliper, rotor and carrier for access. I reckon 2-3 hours per side to finish the job completely including a shaft seal.
Last edited by OffroadFrance; 11-10-2017 at 03:53 PM.
#8
Jeff,
Whilst perusing the Ashcroft data, I noticed these. HD CV kits with a 5 year warranty. You may be able to get a similar deal in the US.
Ashcroft Transmissions
Also these, depends how much dosh they cost.
Heavy Duty CV Joints and Conversions for Land Rover | KAM Differentials
Whilst perusing the Ashcroft data, I noticed these. HD CV kits with a 5 year warranty. You may be able to get a similar deal in the US.
Ashcroft Transmissions
Also these, depends how much dosh they cost.
Heavy Duty CV Joints and Conversions for Land Rover | KAM Differentials
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