Good morning folks. Recently had an issue crop up, and I’m not sure where to go from here.

While in stop and go style traffic or times like backing out of the driveway (low rpm, low speed), after letting off the gas, the disco will stall. It only does so if the engine is warm and it’s hot outside. Idle drops to less than 500, and then it’s done. Sometimes it’ll stumble back up but normally stalls unless I keep my foot in the throttle a bit. In the morning when it’s below 80, this doesn’t happen, only in the afternoon.

This really only started when I installed clamps on the IACV lines which were missing (2 were missing,) and on the breather tubes going into the valve covers (1 each). Kind of odd right?

Ive replaced the crank position sensor and alternator. The alternator was bad anyway, but replacement didn’t fix the issue. Also got the P38 150A unit. Kudos to whoever posted that info at some point.

I have P0150 active and P0174 and P0505 pending.

Ill be replacing the O2 sensors today, but just wanted to see if anybody else had any ideas of what I should look for. Hoping the IACV isn’t bad as it’s a little pricey.

Clean the IAC and make sure when you rotate it in your hand it spins freely inside. Out of my D2’s I’ve yet to replace one. Pretty robust part honestly if you keep it clean.

Gotcha, good to know. Anything specific to clean it with? MAF/sensor type stuff?

I use brake cleaner or carb spray on the IAC. And just like No Doubt said if it’s CPS nothing will keep it running.

Loose/dirty MAF connections can cause weird issues, vacuum leaks (check the IAC hose connection to the main intake tube) it can crack and cause leaks at the nipple, I’ve seen plenty of loose upper intake manifold bolts (4 long/2 short bolts) cause vacuum leaks as well.

Thanks Gents. Gonna get cracking on it tonight if my honey-do list ever stops.

Thanks Best. That sucker was pretty stuck. Lots of carb cleaner and some q tips, and she’s idling the way she’s supposed to now.

Of course now my TC and HDC lights are on.