I have a 1999 Disco 2 diesel. One key has original circuit board in handle. The other one got wet and is inop. Both keys unlock doors and activate all circuits in ignition switch. All dash lights work, fuel pump comes on. The key with the bad circuit board will not engage starter. When I turn the bad key to engage starter, an electrical load is applied because the AC fan slows down, but the starter won't engage. Another note,,,,when the doors are locked with either key via the drivers doorLock, both keys unlock the door. When the door is actually opened, the alarm sounds and can only be silenced with the good key in the ignition. Is there something in the security circuit that is stuck? Everything I have read says the car should start with either key if the car is unlocked with the remote first. Does anyone know if that is true and what might be the problem.I would like to not use the security system and just unlock and lock the car manually with the keys.

 

The key I use everyday in my 01 is a $6 key with no chip. Everything functions normally.

 

There is no "chipped" key for these trucks, that circuit board you speak of is the keyless entry remote.

 

The NAS trucks were not fitted with this option, but some others were. The RAVE says:

 

Thanks for the info. Truck has German manual so no telling how it got to Costa Rica. When I try to start with bad key, the good key is in the car. I thought the coil for the remobilization circuit was above the mirror but maybe it is in the switch and is excited through the key shaft. I am afraid to take the guts out of the good key and put in the bad one. Closest dealer is 5 hours away. I will continue to search. I would like to deactivate that system entirely. I may try a jumper and see if starts by just going to the solenoid. I don't know how much if any input that mobilization unit has on a TD5 engine. Will key you posted.

 

You may have to put good key near the ignition when metal only key is used. If that works, you could make several metal only keys, and hide the stub of the old key in the truck, silicone inside the plastic around the wheel, etc. Jumper won't get it. If you decide to keep smart key in the truck, you could file off one side so it does not actually turn the lock core.

 

Forgot to add that the RAVE shop and owner manual set is a free download at links below. Rover manuals are also available in a variety of languages from LR at the TOPIx - TOPIx site. I believe that owners manuals are free and you may have to subscribe to others. Might be handy to have more than one language version in certain areas.

Of course, there is univesal translation - a pal's wife complained the AC was not working in the BMW - she thought the button with the snowflake was for winter driving.

 

BTW - if the known working key is back in Missouri, it will be cheaper to have some one air freight it to you than the hassle with defeating the robust immobilization. Rover alarms are serious PITA, and once alarm immobilzation is triggered it is real handy to have a working key fob.

 

Thanks, and that is my concern, either the key is back in the states or the good one fails also. I did find a comment in a Haynes manual that the engine will immobilize 5 minutes after the key is removed from the switch or 30 seconds after the engine has been switched off and the drivers door opened. The alarm going off when the door is opened with the manual good key is confusing but probably plays into the equation somehow. Thanks

 

Factory manual links below, either full or in single manual slices. I think the dealer level computer may be able to program the alarm off completely, or sections of it.