To Stealership Or Not to Stealership??
#1
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okay- So the Overheating issue with my 98 D1 will not seem to die, quit or led me in the right direction for correction.
Issue: The truck warms up nicely, runs perfect and idles perfect and the needle is at 1/3. After driving normal/intermitant hills and stop & go (all in the same drive cycle), The engine will still run normal (no overheating what so ever needle at 1/3). However about 30 minutes into a drive cycle, when I come to a stop at a long light she starts to overheat, yet the engine still idles normal. The temp will start to climb and once it gets just over 2/3 way, I'll throw the heater full blast and it will drop right down to 1/3. The heat coming out is very hot.
Here's the items and the exact order in which I changed out the parts, reason why & addition extra "love". All Items are now functioning:
1. New Viscous Fan (OEM)- Was very easy to spin when cold.
2. New Cooling fans (aftermarket 1,00 CFM each)- not coming on with A/C. Also hosed out both radiators (A/C & Engine) lots of junk stuck in it.
3. New T-stat (OEM)- just for piece of mind. Install in correct direction and with the imprint of "top" at the top in hole (I said Hole)
4. New Temp Sensor for ECU (OEM)- corroded inside only.
5. New Temp Sending unit for gauge (OEM)- corroded in/out- even replaced the "push-on" connector since it also in bad shape.
6. New Water Pump (OEM)- Also Completed a flush (before new pump install) & bleed after (on an incline).
When I completed the Head Gasket, I checked all the hoses for cracks, clogs and damage. All pertaing to the cooling were in good shape.
So what next? Do I man up and let the so called experts at it?
Issue: The truck warms up nicely, runs perfect and idles perfect and the needle is at 1/3. After driving normal/intermitant hills and stop & go (all in the same drive cycle), The engine will still run normal (no overheating what so ever needle at 1/3). However about 30 minutes into a drive cycle, when I come to a stop at a long light she starts to overheat, yet the engine still idles normal. The temp will start to climb and once it gets just over 2/3 way, I'll throw the heater full blast and it will drop right down to 1/3. The heat coming out is very hot.
Here's the items and the exact order in which I changed out the parts, reason why & addition extra "love". All Items are now functioning:
1. New Viscous Fan (OEM)- Was very easy to spin when cold.
2. New Cooling fans (aftermarket 1,00 CFM each)- not coming on with A/C. Also hosed out both radiators (A/C & Engine) lots of junk stuck in it.
3. New T-stat (OEM)- just for piece of mind. Install in correct direction and with the imprint of "top" at the top in hole (I said Hole)
4. New Temp Sensor for ECU (OEM)- corroded inside only.
5. New Temp Sending unit for gauge (OEM)- corroded in/out- even replaced the "push-on" connector since it also in bad shape.
6. New Water Pump (OEM)- Also Completed a flush (before new pump install) & bleed after (on an incline).
When I completed the Head Gasket, I checked all the hoses for cracks, clogs and damage. All pertaing to the cooling were in good shape.
So what next? Do I man up and let the so called experts at it?
#2
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Sounds like you need to add new radiator to that list. You've gotten to everything else. You are doing fine no need to go to the dealership.
Edit: I just read that your electric fans do not come on with the A/C. Even when the AC is on "low"? That could be a problem. Also you may want to get an ODBII scanner that reads live data to see what the exact temps are that you are dealing with.
Edit: I just read that your electric fans do not come on with the A/C. Even when the AC is on "low"? That could be a problem. Also you may want to get an ODBII scanner that reads live data to see what the exact temps are that you are dealing with.
Last edited by lipadj46; 08-26-2009 at 07:53 AM.
#3
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I had this problem with another car. It was the radiator. This happened to be a Jag and believe it or not, every time the car was taken in to the stealer for service, the procedure was to add a packet of Barr's Leak to the coolant. Needless to say, the rad got blocked. A radiator shop or many A/C shops can verify if the rad is blocked and either rod it out or replace it. I replaced mine with one off of eBay and all was fine. Dealer will add another 500 bucks just on GPs.
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#8
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All,
Sorry it was a type O in my first post.
The fans (Now) come on when I turn the air on Low (or any setting). I replaced them BECAUSE they were NOT coming on with the A/C. Since I replaced them they are now working when the A/C is turned on at any setting. They also produce 1,000 CFM Each, not 1,00.
With or With out the A/C the overheat condition still happens. So I guess I'm leaning towards the Rodding or replacemnet of the Rad.
Sorry it was a type O in my first post.
The fans (Now) come on when I turn the air on Low (or any setting). I replaced them BECAUSE they were NOT coming on with the A/C. Since I replaced them they are now working when the A/C is turned on at any setting. They also produce 1,000 CFM Each, not 1,00.
With or With out the A/C the overheat condition still happens. So I guess I'm leaning towards the Rodding or replacemnet of the Rad.
Last edited by Jrock; 08-26-2009 at 10:52 AM.
#9
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-I just realized I'm not sure if the fans come on while driving around town. Maybe I need to check the relay.
However I thought the Overheat relay was the same relay for the A/C operation. Isn't it the green relay on the passanger sidewall of the foot well?
However I thought the Overheat relay was the same relay for the A/C operation. Isn't it the green relay on the passanger sidewall of the foot well?
Last edited by Jrock; 08-26-2009 at 10:54 AM.
#10