Panhard rod bushes could be worn or bolt/s are loose. Check for play in the bushes.

 

"Still get", makes me think it was shaking before.
What lead you to replace the tie rods ends and steering damper?

 

Just an observation from years of experience. There is no point having wheels balanced or tracking checked if the suspension and steering aren't 100% in good condition as you are wasting cash. Best to check and sort out the root causes first like steering box, bushes, bearings, shock absorbers et al and then look into the peripheral issues. Usually these are the problems on highish mileage vehicles.

 

the first part of any alignment is to check for worn front end parts, so I would go back to the alignment shop and have them check it. tell them you have a problem and have them recheck it.
And you can be pretty sure the will go threw you front-end with a fine toothed comb on a come back looking for a way out.

 

Considering the only real issues I can visually see are the ball joints looking ragged Im gonna replace those and see if it helps. Im looking at a set of new tires and dont want to ruin them. Ill also play with the steering box.

 

So back to post #12

 

I had a similar issue then but only when taking long corners.

 

I remember years ago when I took my truck back to the main LR stealership where I had bought it, for a service and a couple of problems. The truck was still under LR warranty from new, I told them I was getting a grinding/whirring noise on long fast left hand bends, they road tested it and said there was nothing wrong. The next service I complained again of the same problem, they again road tested it and said they couldn't find anything wrong. All along I had said it sounded like a right hand wheel bearing packing up. Low and behold, one year after the 3 year warranty expired the bl**dy wheel bearing packed up completely and it cost me £280 in another LR stealership to have it fixed. Just goes to show how stupid some of these service guys are. The problem being they put boys onto your vehicle to service it and check it out instead of qualified senior mechanics, but they still charge top dollar whoever services it.

 

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I had steering/tracking issues on the '03 so let me add a few cents to your diagnosis. I never got a "shaking steering wheel" with worn steering rods. With the tie rod ends going out, the steering isn't as responsive as it should be like a little slack in the wheel making a turn or adjustment while driving; you already figured that out. The ball joints going bad allowed the tire (or tires) a little "give" so that contacting bumps, tracks, ridges in the roadway, you could feel the truck steer itself out of the way just a bit, not to mention the feeling that there is no cushion or shock absorbing ability in the front. I do remember having a slight, random shake but very inconsistent and required an antagonist such as an irregularity in the road surface. The shaking ceased after replacing the BJs as lower, PS was SHOT like just wiggling inside of the housing. Regardless, upper/lower ball joint replacement makes a night & day difference in the overall handling and tracking, is well worth the time and effort in any case and the cost (+\- $100 and tool kit) is minimal for the gain and reliability factor. Have you ever seen a car or truck stranded in the median or intersection with a front wheel detached??? F*that.
On another SUV I owned when the steering wheel shaked, it was warped rotors. A warped rotor and even a new, poorly manufactured rotor will cause the wheel to shake. I suppose if the ball joints were bad enough it will cause a steering shake but it would feel different than a rotor causing the shake.
If you replace BJs and shake continues, rotate the tires and see if that makes even the slightest difference and that will point to a tire problem.

there are more than a few threads asking what should be done if the spindle knuckle doesn't move when torquing the nuts on. In all of them that I read the OP decided to leave the BJ nuts loose enough that the knuckle can still move. I had that problem and even with only 40 ft-lb the spindle would lock in place but I went ahead and diagnosed it rather than leave it torqued at 30lbs, or go with "this is supposed to be tight as f***, it just needs to be broken-in." I got another good, used knuckle and another set of ball joints from a different manufacturer and the assembly rotated effortlessly at 80 or 100 ft-lb whatever it's supposed to be torqued. Buy quality parts or the OEM Lemforder ball joints. Nobody had the Lemforder local but I used an import warehouse that supplied some solid parts, or so i hope. The uppers were actually Eurospare but they aren't nearly important as the lowers which take the brunt. Wanted to give a heads-up to save you the searching and debating in event you run into the same issue. You may also end up with a BJ removal/install kit without the proper sized fittings. The lower unit required the utilization of a extra large socket @ the proper size and a cutoff wheel. You may have to get creative with some large sockets, pipe or bar stock is all I'm saying. Just be prepared. You will also need to pull the hub and halfshaft from the axle housing as an assembly while threading the ABS sensor. I removed the ABS sensor from the hub but take caution doing this, wrap the sensor up because it will attract a thousand metal filings. It also needs a dab of conductive lube or grease on the tip when putting it back into the hub or you could get ABS faults. I tried unplugging the ABS sensor in the engine bay and pull the whole lead through with axle and hub but that connection looked sketchy to me; I was surprised to see individual wires rather than a pigtail harness as I pried the connector housing apart.
One last thing is dropping the knuckle from the original ball joints. 99% of the time it will be frozen solid on the old tapered joints. You can beat on it with a couple of BFH for several hours, fashion a taper splitter or whatever, but could still find yourself working for hours getting it to come off. What did it for me in 2-minutes, FINALLY, was (2) 4-Lb hammers, using 1 of them as a dolly, the other for whacking (on the lower BJ) AND an old fashion ball joint splitter wedged in the upper part of the assembly pressing down with my knee I think and it dropped right off. Beat on it for hours with the 2 BFH but nothing happened til I actually pressed down on the knuckle from the top, simultaneously.