I'm going to put my Tom Woods in this week, and want to make sure I have the right steps for the install...I haven't done much work on my trucks but that's about to change.

Does this sound right?

1. Chock rear wheels
2. Put front axle on jack stands so that front wheels will spin
3. Put tranny in neutral (and CDL unlocked)
4. Unbolt current driveshaft, careful to not round bolts/nuts (socket on the bolt and channel locks on the nut)
5. Bolt in new driveshaft using same hardware. Use lock-tite.
6. Put a squirt of grease into each of the nipples

For #5: do you guys use torque wrenches? Or do you just crank?

For #6: What kind of grease should I use? And how do you get the grease into the nipple (what kind of grease can)?

I'll be sure to take some pics.

Thanks, Dustin

 

Just use any good grease, I use Green Stuff, it is for farm equipment and is very water and dust repelant.
You will need a grease gun and a tube of grease.
Make sure that you have a flexable hose for the grease gun.
Grease the u-joints at EVERY oil change and they will last this side of forever.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...ion=Grease+Gun

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...+Multi-Purpose

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...+Hose+Whip+End

You can grease them with the stiff hose but it is easier with the flexable one because if the nipples are not in the right spot you can reach over and around the u-joint to reach them.

 

www.greengrease.net


You can get it at AutoZone, TSC, etc.

 

Harbor freight has a nice full sized (14oz) grease gun that comes with the flexible hose and the 1/4" nozzle for $15. You can buy the lithium type 2 grease (recommended in the Rave CD) there too for a few bucks (though it's $0.30 cheaper at Walmart). I may try the green stuff next time.

 

If you really want to protect your drive shaft, use a good synthetic grease, don't use the recommendations in the Rave.

 

That pretty much covers it. And like Spike said, lube them every oil change. And remmeber, new grease from around all seals.

 

mobil 1 synthetic grease ftw

 

Thanks antichrist, great feedback.

Does anyone know where I can order new self-locking nuts for the re-install?

Also, simple question: where would you place the jack and jackstand to get one wheel off the ground?

I've rebuilt the steps:

1. Chock rear wheels.
2. Jack at least one front wheel off the ground.
3. Put tranny in neutral (and CDL unlocked).
4. Unbolt current driveshaft, careful to not round bolts/nuts (On the diff input flange: one open end and one box end wrench. On the FWD output flange: Just a box end wrench as it has captive bolts)
5. Bolt in new driveshaft using new self-locking nuts, if possible. Otherwise, just use same hardware.
6. Squirt high quality, synthetic grease into each of the nipples until new grease comes out of all 4 seals on each U-joint.

 

I have a floor jack so put it under the part radius arm that curves under the axle, and place the jack stand under the axle tube. If you're using the OEM jack, place it as shown in the owners manual.

 

Some people suggest marking the shaft to the flange with a sharpie or soap stone or even a punch but if you are installing a newly made shaft that won't be of much use. I don't think it really matters on an old shaft or their would be something in the bolt pattern to avoid mistakes.