Maybe the belt isn't routed properly and the water pump is spinning backward. If the engine gets hot that fast, then water isn't making it through the radiator. you still have to see if you have hot water at very bottom of radiator and lower hoses. That would be a huge indicator moving forward. Confirm all of this and let us know where you are at.

This is what I would do first. If you want to look for bigger problems, remove spark plugs one at a time and see if all exactly the same in appearance. Indicator would be one that looks clean and dry, obviously so compared to the others. Remove oil filler cap and look for residue on the bottom side indicating water and oil mixing. You can also test coolant for combustion gas fairly easily in your driveway with a kit for the auto parts store or ordered online. Just rules of deduction that I wouldn't pay somebody else to do. Paying someone to tell you that your engine is bad is just adding insult to injury.

Oh I see what you are saying. But, anyone that had the symptoms you are experiencing showed exhaust gas in the coolant. It has to be. Exhaust gas into coolant via the block and instantaneous overheating. Only other way is water does not circulate at all due to its related factors. Alright just trying to give you some ideas. Hope it doesn't turn out to be as bad as it sounds. FYI, have seen threads about Known bad block describing engine ability to idle in place for hours, then blows coolant when driven. Others have described a very rough idle and misfire at first startup due to coolant leaked into cylinder while sitting overnight, then clears while driving. Engine overheating and symptoms, faulty blocks has no clear, defined rule. You just have to diagnose through the steps until you reach bottom of the list and start tearing it down or replace.

 

I'm pretty sure ive got good circulation, water spit out of the bleeder screw pretty good while running. def have the belt routed properly, new radiator. ill check to see if the bottom hoses are gotting hot also tomorrow when I try the burp procedure suggested. thanks man for your time.

 

You'll likely be chasing your tail for a while.
......

 

Take the T-stat out of equation & see if it still over heats , if it does then you know you have bigger problems,,
To do so disconnect hose from upper plastic T going to T-stat & cap it off (any way you think you can), then take T-stat out & connect lower radiator hose to the hose that connects to middle outlet of stat and goes to engine, (using a metal or plastic hose connector of correct size, you can buy in any part store for few buck's), that will give you a direct circulation of coolant without restriction for the engine, then bleed system cold, & give it a go keep rpm around 1500 to 1800 to get rid of remaining air in system, if it doesn't over heat anymore, thenyou had a faulty stat, (which happens often) if it overheats again, then you can chase down real problem,,,
Need to have a decent reservoir cap to make sure it's doing its job,

 

so the lower hose is not getiing warm and I also found a small crack in the resevior bottle. could it be the thermostat even though its new? the lower has has pressure it seemd just not warming up. The bottle will need to be replaced.

 

Yes, a new T-stat can be bad out of box,
Also you can't have a crack in bottle and still build lot of pressure in cooling system, unless something else is wrong, (that's why I suggested taking stat out of equation to know what is going on)

 

What brand of Stat did you get? Motorad?

 

I guess that's the next step to take the tstat out. ill get to it asap and let you guys know. got the new bottle and cap on the way.

 

sorry dave I didn't answer your question. I bought the thing off ebay for cheap. says its a 180 made by premium quality lol. come from parts pro usa. I already sent them a message letting them know it was bad and I'm trying to see if they'll send another one for free.

 

After idling for a period of time, the radiator should begin getting warm on bottom along with lower hose, etc. radiator cold at the bottom could mean it's faulty. Was your replacement radiator new with tags or a second hand spare? No telling what got inside depending on how long it sat if not boxed up and other variables. Of course thermostat has to be bench tested or replaced. At least test them in a pot of hot water and find out what temp they open at to further diagnose. Hoping for you its ancillary. I went to my truck today and fixed a flat then found coolant on the ground, sprayed all over the passenger side of engine so now I have big problems too. MotherF***!!!